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Looks good! I also slightly bend the transfer rod angle in towards the receiver a bit instead of it aiming straight up. I've also started squaring up the part of the carrier that touches the transfer rod with a file, and I also hammer that part of the transfer rod flat for more surface contact and so it doesnt get stuck between the carrier and side of the receiver, I go over that in my video.
Yeah, I think we’re both approaching this from the same angle. I’ll check out your video if I get a chance this weekend. I’ve been doing a lot of trial and error with the different styles.
If they were as easy as the SS in the KS47, it wouldn’t be as much fun. Fukn around in the shop and on the range is where it’s at!
 
I have two each of the Mars and DNT styles. I commented in the other thread regarding the DNT.
For the Mars, you are going to have to make your own trip wire. The one supplied is too short and, in my experience, too small in diameter. I have remedied this using a coat hanger and torch. The carrier will have a tendency to want to ride over the wire and lock up the action. I think I have it solved and will know when I get out to test it again.
Yall, this man is brilliant 👏
 
I have gotten the MARS to work in Zastava ZPAP M70s and M72 RPKs, I made a video showing how to do the mod and bend the transfer rod/Op rod to length so it functions correctly

I added timestamps in the YT comments so you can jump around. I did very few edits and went through the entire process so it's right under 1 hour long in case people want to see everything I did.

hello i have everything installed but for some reason my hammer is getting caught on the reset cam squiggly side towards the hammer not sure what the issue is seems ti be that my hammer is a little to long but it worked with the oem trigger and cam
 
I keep reading these threads as FART triggers and I chuckle a little each time. RIP A FART
 
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my hammer seems to be a little to long its getting caught on the reset cam help!!
In your first pic, that’s how the hammer is supposed to interface with the part that replaces the disconnector. That’s how the trigger gets its forced reset.
The second picture looks fine. Cock the hammer and install the bolt carrier group. When the BCG is all the ay forward, make sure there’s not a gap between the left side where it rests on the trunnion.

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If there’s a gap like this, you’ll have to make a longer wire. If there’s no gap, put in the return spring assembly, press the trigger and pull the BCG to the rear. You’ll feel the trigger gets its reset. Keep pressure on the trigger and follow the BCG home. As the carrier gets home, the cam should release and the hammer will fall.

Report back and let me know what you find.
 
my hammer seems to be a little to long its getting caught on the reset cam help!!
You may need to round the top edge if it is catching your hammer. I don't see how it could be catching your hammer, but if there are some burrs take a file and lightly file the burrs off. Based on your pictures it looks to be making the right amount of contact and is NOT too long
 
hello i have everything installed but for some reason my hammer is getting caught on the reset cam squiggly side towards the hammer not sure what the issue is seems ti be that my hammer is a little to long but it worked with the oem trigger and cam
Gonna need some more pictures showing what you're talking about. if you can make a video showing how it traps the hammer, upload it to YT and link it here
 
Tested it this morning and it’s 100% now. My thicker wire works better and I was able to get the length needed for proper functioning.
I was able to squeeze off doubles without thinking about it. Tested the DNT version with a hammer retarder installed and it didn’t work. Interestingly, it fired single shots without locking up the action. The retarder is out and it’s back to fully semiauto. I’m working on dialing down the gas to slow it down some.
Got the gas dialed in on the pistol. It’s throwing cases 10’ to 15’ now. When I go lower, it cycles semiauto consistently interestingly enough. If I get bored, I may try to fab a gas selector to go between semi and forced reset.
I opted to Mars trigger the RPK. I had to fab another piece of coat hanger to get the cam working properly. The testing this morning confirmed it and I burned through a few hundred rounds between the three.
The Maadi and RPK are Mars equipped and the pistol is a heavily modified DNT version. I can’t wait for the price of ammo to drop, lol!

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Luv that pistol! Did you fab that setup with the lower hg? Look up the definition of AOW (any other weapon).
It’s my own creation built from leftovers and out of spec pieces that could be re-engineered. It started with a milled Rooskie barrel that was cut off in front of the gas block. It’s the only aow in my hoard. It’s, by far, the most fun of the three to shoot with a FRT.
A lathe and mill can make anything possible.:LOL:
 
Got the gas dialed in on the pistol. It’s throwing cases 10’ to 15’ now. When I go lower, it cycles semiauto consistently interestingly enough. If I get bored, I may try to fab a gas selector to go between semi and forced reset.
I opted to Mars trigger the RPK. I had to fab another piece of coat hanger to get the cam working properly. The testing this morning confirmed it and I burned through a few hundred rounds between the three.
The Maadi and RPK are Mars equipped and the pistol is a heavily modified DNT version. I can’t wait for the price of ammo to drop, lol!

View attachment 404063
Holy Jesus, Mary and Joseph! Hell Yeah, now those be some real TRUNK GUNS :love:
 
I'm trying to install my Kono a Mars clone, and the wire hook is too thick for me to get clearance for my safety lever.
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How to proceed which parts to modify or replace?
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Its a milled Arsenal SAM-7 Carbine my rifle.
 
Hey boss! Try the other side of the wire and see if it makes a difference. If not, shorten the tail going through the cam so it looks like this:

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You should have enough clearance. The wire I’m using is home made and thicker than what was supplied.
 
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