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What do you guys recommend to put on the stock to smooth out the thin spots in the stain? I love the subdued look and I don't want to change the shade or have a gloss finish. I just want to smooth it out some.



The thin spots show up worse in photos than in real life.

I've heard of using tung oil or lemon oil, but like I said...I don't want to change the shade or gloss.
 

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If it's thin or spotty... just remove whatever finish is on it with lacquer thinner and start over. One coat of teak oil (watco) gives the finish your talking about. Just rub it in with a clean rag.
 

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^ Yes, definitely. The different spots are from contaminants in the wood that either prevented stain from entering the grain or were stains in and of themselves.

To get rid of them you'll have to completely strip it, sand it to the point where it is all uniform and clean, and finish it from there. I'd probably do the handguards at the same time so it'll match, and just put on a couple of coats of tung oil or similar to give it a little tint and protection without too much gloss or buildup.
 

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Negative on the sanding unless your trying to remove dents... that's a slippery slope.

Lacquer thinner will take out any cosmo still in the wood. If you have dark stains (like the kind from metal contact) a product called 'problem solver' will take that out. I believe they use it for refinishing decks, but basically any product containing oxalic acid will remove that.

So far as final finish, I prefer teak oil.. but boiled linseed oil, tung oil, etc will all do the trick. Keep it down to one or two coats to keep it from getting shiny.. if it gets shiny, just knock down the shine with some fine steel wool until its where you want it.
 

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Eh, in my experience, with wood in that kind of condition sometimes sanding is the only way to get some of that stuff off. Obviously you have to be careful, but provided you do all the pieces and do a good job with the right grades of paper it will give you the best possible result.
 

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Instead of sandpaper, I use steel wool with lacquer thinner ot denatured alcohol. It will remove most finishes, clean and gently smooth the wood.
 

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After the 0000 steel wool, use boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or teak oil for a matte finish.
 

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sdcromer said:
After the 0000 steel wool, use boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or teak oil for a matte finish.
I've used BLO on all of the wood that I've done. It takes a while, but it's good. Original too.
 

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Indiansprings said:
I rub the BLO in with the 0000 wool.
How do you keep the metal 'dust' out of the finish?
 

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here is a set of yugo grips.before and after.used this stuff i got at the boat shop.first sanded them,then ironed out the dents,a little more sanding,teak cleaner.need teak oil to finish.they were out of stock,but will post pics of the finished product.


 

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SA58 said:
Indiansprings said:
I rub the BLO in with the 0000 wool.
How do you keep the metal 'dust' out of the finish?
I use a very thin coat, buff it into the wood with 0000 wool. Then let it set for about half an hour, wipe off with a lint free cloth. Since there is no finish really, you wont find any metal partials.
 

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to clean - soak in lacquer thinner

to refinish - BLO, probably 3-4 coats..
 
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