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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Which Tapco G2 Trigger Group to go in my New SLR-104UR?

Single hook or double hook?

Which one is preferable? Why?

Please forgive my typo on the thread page. Of course it's my new SLR-104UR not SGL-104UR
I'm still stunned and disoriented by the sudden loss of the AK Files. Tired too.

Thanks for your help though. I'm finally gonna break down and replace the Arsenal trigger with a Tapco G2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its cut for a single hook, I would just stick with that so I didnt have to cut my receiver.
The double hook Tapco G2 trigger group would require me to cut my receiver? That seems pretty drastic. Is the stock Arsenal trigger in there now a single hook?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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If the reason you want to change trigger groups is because you do not like the two stage effect, you can simply file of the little ridge on the hammer sear surface and smooth it out, you will now have a single stage trigger and not give hard earned money to Tapco.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If the reason you want to change trigger groups is because you do not like the two stage effect, you can simply file of the little ridge on the hammer sear surface and smooth it out, you will now have a single stage trigger and not give hard earned money to Tapco.
I have liked my Arsenal triggers until now. My new SLR-104UR, the trigger is horrible. There's a pronounced click you feel and hear before getting to the second stage. Then there's creep just prior to the break. My other Arsenal triggers are fine. This one definitely has a problem. Would you happen to have any pics of the little ridge on the hammer sear surface? Do I smooth it out completely flat?
Oh, when I first brought the rifle home, I pulled the charging handle back and the bolt got hung up on the hammer. Charging handle and bolt carrier would not cycle forward. It happened like three times. It's not doing it anymore after racking several times.
 

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I have liked my Arsenal triggers until now. My new SLR-104UR, the trigger is horrible. There's a pronounced click you feel and hear before getting to the second stage. Then there's creep just prior to the break. My other Arsenal triggers are fine. This one definitely has a problem. Would you happen to have any pics of the little ridge on the hammer sear surface? Do I smooth it out completely flat?
Oh, when I first brought the rifle home, I pulled the charging handle back and the bolt got hung up on the hammer. Charging handle and bolt carrier would not cycle forward. It happened like three times. It's not doing it anymore after racking several times.
Can't speak for the Arsenal trigger group but all of the Tapco trigger groups I've tried will cause the carrier to hang up on the hammer. This has not caused any function issues at all.
 
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Can't speak for the Arsenal trigger group but all of the Tapco trigger groups I've tried will cause the carrier to hang up on the hammer. This has not caused any function issues at all.
Most semi-auto FCG's will drag on the hammer and is not unique to Tapco. This is mainly due to a normal full auto FCG have the rate reducer and auto sear pulling the hammer back more in normal function. Really is not an issue in normal use and is only evident if you pull back and nurse the carrier across the hammer.
 

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Give the Arsenal FCG some more time..a little grease and oil at contact points. It sounds dry to me with a click and creep as you described in post #7. I have done the change before to G2
and went back to Arsenal in the factory rifles. If you are not suffering trigger slap, work with it, spray it or hand lube the assembly. Smoothing the contact points through filing or Dremel
won't hurt but go lightly. Keeping the factory FCG is good for several reasons if you can make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Give the Arsenal FCG some more time..a little grease and oil at contact points. It sounds dry to me with a click and creep as you described in post #7. I have done the change before to G2
and went back to Arsenal in the factory rifles. If you are not suffering trigger slap, work with it, spray it or hand lube the assembly. Smoothing the contact points through filing or Dremel
won't hurt but go lightly. Keeping the factory FCG is good for several reasons if you can make it work.
Please elaborate on those several reasons it's good to keep the factory FCG. I'd appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Most semi-auto FCG's will drag on the hammer and is not unique to Tapco. This is mainly due to a normal full auto FCG have the rate reducer and auto sear pulling the hammer back more in normal function. Really is not an issue in normal use and is only evident if you pull back and nurse the carrier across the hammer.
Thanks for that. But honestly, that's never once happened with my SGLs. Even trying to make it happen (nursing it back).
 

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Please elaborate on those several reasons it's good to keep the factory FCG. I'd appreciate it.
The biggest reason is because a factory disconnector (as found in the Arsenal FCG) is designed to work with the anti-slap rivet that should already be installed in all Arsenal rifles. Research "AK trigger slap" to understand more. The rivet head looks like this - it's the big fat cylindrical thing under the tail of the disconnector (the black thing in the photo):

orig.jpg

I have Tapco triggers in my AKM's, and Arsenal triggers in my -74's and Saiga conversions. I don't have a problem with Tapco triggers, but I think most people would consider it a downgrade. Either way, you've got a working FCG, and either way, you're likely going to have a shitty letoff and lots of creep unless you take the time to file and polish where needed. I've done this with a milled AK-47 I have since I want to try to make it as accurate as possible, and that trigger is now as nice as any I've ever felt on a battle rifle.

-Thirtycal
 

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I hated my 2 stage as well. I have bought all g2 triggers, then sold my old arsenals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The biggest reason is because a factory disconnector (as found in the Arsenal FCG) is designed to work with the anti-slap rivet that should already be installed in all Arsenal rifles. Research "AK trigger slap" to understand more. The rivet head looks like this - it's the big fat cylindrical thing under the tail of the disconnector (the black thing in the photo):

View attachment 2840

I have Tapco triggers in my AKM's, and Arsenal triggers in my -74's and Saiga conversions. I don't have a problem with Tapco triggers, but I think most people would consider it a downgrade. Either way, you've got a working FCG, and either way, you're likely going to have a shitty letoff and lots of creep unless you take the time to file and polish where needed. I've done this with a milled AK-47 I have since I want to try to make it as accurate as possible, and that trigger is now as nice as any I've ever felt on a battle rifle.

-Thirtycal
Thanks Thirtycal. Good stuff. Yeah, I've been very happy with my Arsenals the last couple years. I definitely agree how the two stage trigger lends itself to more precise and accurate shooting as the trigger break is consistently well defined.
When I brought my new SLR-104UR last night, it was the first time ever that I became aware of so many hate and complain about the Arsenal trigger.
But I gather your good points about polishing and I know I'll have to file too! It's just a matter of trying to find out exactly where within the trigger group/sear I need to do my filing and polishing.
This will be my first attempt at "home gunsmithing."
 
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