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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some insight about the best plan of attack for repainting some components of my Tula AKS74U. Had it built shortly before Techno's paint became available, always wished the repainted parts matched the original parts better.

You can see the difference pretty well in the attached picture. The receiver, rear sight base, and barrel components don't match the top cover and bolt carrier. The original selector and muzzle device does actually match the new paint pretty well. It bugs me enough and I want it to be as perfect as possible.

I am quite the newbie when it comes to refinishing\painting and haven't really done any painting other than spraying Norrells on a ar15 build. So I have a HVLP gun and an air compressor but I would like to also pickup a cheaper airbrush too for some of the more intricate areas.

Couple ways to refinish that I have thought about.

1. Scuff the parts I am looking to repaint and spray over the existing finish.
2. Citristrip (Or other chemical stripper) the parts down to the parkerizing and spray.
3. Blast the parts down to bare metal, re-parkerize, spray.
4. Pay someone to refinish.. :rolleyes:

I don't really have the tools to blast, and park so that would be the hardest for me. Any thoughts?

 

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I think you will be happiest if you pay someone to refinish it.

I think a shop like Two Rivers Arms would be able to achieve your goal. Just make very sure they understand what parts are not to be refinished.
 

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I see.

You might pm techno for his opinion.

It is involved to tool up and have a place to work, but I don't believe you would get good adhesion without stripping the finish.

For what its worth in my experience Evaporust is good at removing paint once it gets in between the paint and the metal. I use it on engine brackets and such. The paint comes off in sheets if left submerged for a while.

For that you would just need a plastic container and enough Evaporust to keep the parts submerged.

Evaporust will remove parkerizing and blue but won't alter the surface of the steel.

Trans Am air cleaner lid in Evaporust. It was pretty rusty when the process started.



Ford 390 A/C Idler pulley. It didn't quite get all the paint off.



Just a thought.
 
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Another good paint stripper is Berryman Chem Dip.

I bought a demilled AR receiver section that had some type of thick paint or other finish on it.

Since it was aluminum and it was small enough I put it in a gallon bucket of Chem Dip.

The paint came off in sheets.

The only bad thing is two months later the aluminum still smells like Chem Dip. Chem Dip stinks to high heaven - just ask a woman - she will TELL YOU. Even though I wear gloves I still end up smelling like it for a few days.

Before



After



The original anodizing was still intact under the paint.

 
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Berryman comes in a 5 gallon size. Usually its available at bigger auto parts stores.

It comes sealed but whatever you do - don't let it spill on your car or truck bed! Bye bye paint if that happens.

It would be difficult to dispose of if you no longer needed it after. Maybe give it to an auto shop.


A barrelled AKSU action MIGHT fit. Maybe soak it muzzle end first, then soak it rear trunnion first after for complete removal.

Berryman won't remove parkerizing.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
That AR stub came out really good. I am inclined to try a stripper of some sort maybe the Berryman if I can find it locally that leaves the parkerizing and try to respray.
 

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I see the mismatch in color, but I don't think it looks bad. I understand your frustration because I totally dwell on things when they don't turn out how I want them.
 
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