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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got one and looking for best way to suppress it. Ive done some searches but haven't come up with much. Pretty sure I do not want to use any type of thread adapter.

My two thoughts-

1. First and preferred. SBR it and cut the barrel down but leave a stub sticking past the FSB to be threaded. Seems when the can isnt being used I could just thread the booster back on to the 24.5 threads. I would lean towards a SDN-6 or Ti Phantom.

2. leave it as a rifle and have someone build an integral suppressor with the long pencil barrel that sticks out past the front sight base. It could be threaded on to the 24.5 threads to mount and concentricity wouldn't be a concern. No clue who could even do such a thing but it seems logical.

Anybody have any experience with either thought?
 

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#1 is your best bet. Make sure your smith chucks the barrel up and checks run out off of the bore. After you build an AK can you quickly realize how nothing about AK's are concentric.
 

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either would work. #1 would probably be the easiest and most flexible (can use different cans). #2 could be an interesting project especially if you made the outside of the can look like a soviet suppressor.
 

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Quiet integral designs don't rely solely on porting but also baffles. In order to do that you would be looking at either a very long can, or shortening the barrel to below 16". Without going the SBR route you are then forced to permanently attach the can to the threads. Going with option 1 you can mount the suppressor to the AK as well as other hosts. Option 2 will be much more expensive and you're stuck with only one suppressed rifle, which will still be loud because AK's vent so much gas at the port end of the gas tube. Either method will require removal of the barrel and all fixtures.
 

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My smith left the barrel a bit longer than normal on an SBR and threaded the extra bit 1/2x28. The 4 piece booster was cut down on the inner cone to fit the longer barrel. I haven't gotten around to getting a suppressor but it's ready to go otherwise.
 

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Also keep in mind any QD mount is designed to be attached to the muzzle threads via Rocksett...which is like hi-temp Loctite. If you don't use it you run the risk of the can shooting loose and causing a baffle strike. That may ruin your plans to run a brake or booster over the exposed barrel when not using the can...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My smith left the barrel a bit longer than normal on an SBR and threaded the extra bit 1/2x28.
Was this a 107UR? I found another post saying the 107s barrel diameter might be too small to provide a good shoulder for the can to butt up against if going 1/2x28. Is there a smaller thread size that might be better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also keep in mind any QD mount is designed to be attached to the muzzle threads via Rocksett...which is like hi-temp Loctite. If you don't use it you run the risk of the can shooting loose and causing a baffle strike. That may ruin your plans to run a brake or booster over the exposed barrel when not using the can...
I was wondering about that but wasn't sure. Maybe Ill just have the threaded area of the FSB turned down and butt the QD mount up against the front sight.
 

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Was this a 107UR? I found another post saying the 107s barrel diameter might be too small to provide a good shoulder for the can to butt up against if going 1/2x28. Is there a smaller thread size that might be better?
If you do 1/2x28 keep in mind that most of the mounts in this thread pitch are for 5.56. AAC did put some out in 7.62 for some DSA FAL's or something that were threaded this way. You don't necessarily need a shoulder behind the threads... Butting the QD mount up against the muzzle is acceptable if the crown is machined perpendicular to the bore axis. Don't try to butt the mount up against the front sight base. It may cause the mount to cant and subsequently the can as well.

CMS
 

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I have a suppressor adapator from Vltor for a Gem-Tech Halo to be used on AK 74's/AKSU's. Not sure though if they make one for a .30 cal suppressor but you can probably ask.
 

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Here's an SDN-6 on a SLR-106UR in .300BLK. You should be able to do something very similar...leaving the original 24mm threaded FSB covered with a thread protector and threading the barrel just forward of that (keep in mind the clearance required behind the mount for the can so it doesn't hit your FSB).

AK (Arsenal 106UR) Short Barreled Rifle in .300 AAC BLK - The Firearm Blog
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the link CMS. Wish there was more info there about it.

I wonder if the gas port will need to be opened once cut if it will have the can on it?
 

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Set the rifle up to run reliably without the can on it. If it's over gassed with the can on then so be it. Better than an under gassed straight pull single shot without the can mounted.
 

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I did #1 with my SLR-106UR.

Made the threads 1/2" long, and faced the front of the FSB to be used as a shoulder. Works like a charm, and the normal booster fits with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did #1 with my SLR-106UR.

Made the threads 1/2" long, and faced the front of the FSB to be used as a shoulder. Works like a charm, and the normal booster fits with no problems.
Thanks!

Who did the work?

Did the barrel need to be pulled?

Any pics?
 

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Yes, the barrel had to be pulled to do it between centers in a lathe.

I pulled the barrel, and a machinist friend of mine did the machine work.

Ill see if I can take a couple of pictures.
 

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ok, pics of my 106ur:



 

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Looks like good work. If the OP plans on using that 51T mount for the SDN-6 he ordered...he CAN thread the mount into the suppressor and then use the can like a thread on. He'll still be able to use a booster to cover the threaded barrel stub but I'd recommend using a thread protector to keep the threads fairly clean. Just ensure the can stays tight.
 
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