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What should I do with my M-95 kit.

  • Do a Kyber Pass build with the sidefolder.

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  • Build it with the underfolding stock.

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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I just got the Email from Harlan that the NDS-556 receivers are ready to order. I've got two M-95 kits so one of them will be built as a correct M-95 underfolder. But I'm kind of thinking that the other one should get a Bulgarian triangle sidefolding stock. It would allow a standard optics rail to be used which would let me use the PK-AS-S on it. I think that would be a pretty cool set up.

Doing this is going to require that pieces of steel be tig'd in to fill the holes for the underfolder. It's no big deal but it really rules out a blued finish as the welded areas would probably look like hell. I'd Moly Resin it instead.

Comments, questions, angry rants?
 

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I'm for something different; although I wasn't aware you could put an AKS74 sidefolder on a rifle with an RPK trunnion. Would be unique!
 

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Don't do it man, it'd be like turning a ferrari into a low rider. Build it as a fixed stock if you can... maybe get a the rear stub off a milled kit or something to use as your rear trunnion. Use the NDS-5 for a receiver and have a welder tig some material on your ejector to bring it out to the right length as well as tack your center support. You'll never regret the final outcome.
 

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If you do it have ALL the parts blued. An M95 with a blued side folding triangle stock would look fairly nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
JaketheSnake said:
If you do it have ALL the parts blued. An M95 with a blued side folding triangle stock would look fairly nice.
Now that is a great idea. It would be cool.

Anyone have any knowledge about bluing a part that has a welded in repair?
Now that I think about it what I had read was that welded up parts didn't parkerize uniformly. Maybe it wouldn't be that bad getting it blued.

The front latch for the sidefolder won't work with the RPK trunnion. But I saw a Kyber build with a triangle folder on an RPK. So I figure if some guy sitting on a dirt floor holding the parts with his feet can make it work so can I. I figure a longer latch would be necessary. Or I could epoxy a tiny piece of rare earth magnet in the end of the stock if I can't make that work.

I decided to go with the NDS-556 over the fixed stock Yugo receivers for a couple of reasons. I put myself on the list for the NDS-556 receivers so I figure that means I gave my word and I'm not going back on it. The NDS-9 isn't in production right now and the NDS-5 has that extra cut for whatever that button looking thing is. So, it would still need some patching. Also, I feel more secure knowing that the ejector is fully heat treated and all one piece. Welding up pieces in the rear of the receiver doesn't bother me.
 

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Build the Yugo M95 as originally manufactured by Zastava.

If you want a Khyber in 5.56 find a Romanian SAR-3 and retrofit it to Khyber specs.

IMHO

KF


Back in the day......2001 or 2002







 

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Krinkfreak said:
Build the Yugo M95 as originally manufactured by Zastava.

If you want a Khyber in 5.56 find a Romanian SAR-3 and retrofit it to Khyber specs.

IMHO

KF
I agree :wink:
This rifle is one of the more rare ones.. Put it back as it should be.
JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I already buggered up the SAR-3, though it would be no problem to change the stock to the triangle folder. The barrel mods aren't going away though.

I guess I don't really need a 5.56 Kyber. I was just looking at it as building the ultimate 5.56 AK. The sidefolder is much more optics friendly than the underfolder.



 

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in the words of lawrence from office space, " naw, naw man, i reckon you'd get your ass kicked doin somethin like that."
 

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Kyber that bad boy, there are 4 billion Yugo UFs out there already... although, most are not 5.56 :grin:
 

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{{{{ Now that is a great idea. It would be cool.

Anyone have any knowledge about bluing a part that has a welded in repair? }}}}}} Yes..I do it all the time...with the right filler rod ,and using proper polishing techniques its not a problem. A few weeks back I spent a couple of grand on a brand new Miller Tig welder just for this sort of stuff.
 
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