[MotorcityMan]

Anyone know where i can obtain the proper color of paint, the same color you see on F1 grenades and PG rockets.

 

[SturmGrenadier]

LOL....Motor man you do not know the struggles I went through try to obtain the same thing back in the day I was trying to make resin reproductions.

I basically had to mix my own and to nail one color green is "Russian Green" is impossible. There is so many different shades of the green and a lot has to do with the surface of the metal.

I assume your talking the Yellow-Green like Afghan era F-1's and color of PKM assault cans?

Tamiya makes a Yellow Green # XF4

Vallejo makes a Lime Green # 007

and also Livery Green # 197

Russian Uniform Green # 094

Russian Green # 096

 

[MotorcityMan]

I'm looking for the shade of the first PG2's rocket's tail section in this pic. I never thought about hobby paint, thats a good idea ya got there brother, thanks man. McM

 

[JOHNO]

Is there a difference in the Russian Green and the Bulgarian Green?This F1 is Bulgarian.

 

[eodinert]

Hey, SturmG, how did the grenade casting go? I was thinking about doing that, too.

 

[SturmGrenadier]

Yes John the Bulgarians use a dark OD green.

Doug, it gets a bit expensive especially when trying to make the molds....one degree off here or there or a big air bubble and you've just wasted a whole thing of mold making material.

Two part resin ya have only minutes to pour once mixed before it starts to set and it gets hot....no, HOT. Ya gotta be carefull with that too cause if your stir too much ya get millions of little air bubbles.

Its a real time consuming PIA and I abandoned the project. Being a perfectionist doesn't help either.

 

[eodinert]

I gathered a bunch of info to do it, but never did. I'm convinced there is a market, if they were quality replicas, but I'm not sure how big it would be. I still keep threatening to give it a shot. I was even thinking about doing the fuzes in a low temp alloy. They would look real, and probably patina somewhat like a real one.

One of these days..

 

[SturmGrenadier]

Oh I am too.....there would definately be a market.

The whole idea came from seeing a guy's resin/real fuse combo WWII painted MkII's he was selling on eBay.

 

[MotorcityMan]

I'm bumping this one to the top, The RPG fairy left me something under my pillow and I'm gonna hook it up and I almost forgot about this thread, Thanks Strum for the codes. McM

 

[MotorcityMan]

And yet another bump.

 

[Richard W.]

The yellow-green paint isn't flat, is it? The F1s in photos all seem to have a sheen.

Is it a semi-gloss?

 

[Wasteland Warrior]

Re:

Yes John the Bulgarians use a dark OD green.

Doug, it gets a bit expensive especially when trying to make the molds....one degree off here or there or a big air bubble and you've just wasted a whole thing of mold making material.

Two part resin ya have only minutes to pour once mixed before it starts to set and it gets hot....no, HOT. Ya gotta be carefull with that too cause if your stir too much ya get millions of little air bubbles.

Its a real time consuming PIA and I abandoned the project. Being a perfectionist doesn't help either.

You just got to be really careful when making the molds, there is a trick to preventing air bubbles. Tapping the side of the container with the material, and pouring slowly and carefully, will eliminate most of your bubbles. Same for tapping the molding "box" or whatever container you are using for actually making the mold itself. Plus, if you are using modeling clay to cover part of your object, it helps to insert or create shapes that can be used as a "key" or "guide" of sorts, so the mold fits together perfectly.

Just practice with small amounts first with a small object and you'll get the hang of it so you don't waste it for larger projects. Hopefully some people with inert ordnance will create some copies for sale. I'm sure there's plenty of RPG owners who want an inert rocket, for instance.

 

[davehal9000]

Invest in a painting pressure tank from Harbor Freight. Pour the resin into the molds, place the molds into the tank and turn on the compressor. The bubbles will be compressed and pushed into the center of the resin and away from surface detail. Saved me a TON of time and resin. A cheap fix!

 

[Wasteland Warrior]

Invest in a painting pressure tank from Harbor Freight. Pour the resin into the molds, place the molds into the tank and turn on the compressor. The bubbles will be compressed and pushed into the center of the resin and away from surface detail. Saved me a TON of time and resin. A cheap fix!

Creating the molds themselves can be a difficult process requiring the elimination of air bubbles as well.

Is this what you're talking about? Also, keep in mind there are bigger jobs and items as well, so this would work for some but not all tasks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half ... 66839.html

 

[davehal9000]

That's exactly what I use. Yeah, impossible for use in molding a PG-7 round but plenty big enough for a grenade. I do also use it for molding as well as casting. I seldom ever have bubbles and if I do it's because I've been horribly sloppy, breaking the usual molding/casting rules in eliminating bubbles. When I have had that one rare bubble it's been easy to fix, unlike my days before using the paint pot.

 

[Wasteland Warrior]

That's exactly what I use. Yeah, impossible for use in molding a PG-7 round but plenty big enough for a grenade. I do also use it for molding as well as casting. I seldom ever have bubbles and if I do it's because I've been horribly sloppy, breaking the usual molding/casting rules in eliminating bubbles. When I have had that one rare bubble it's been easy to fix, unlike my days before using the paint pot.

For creating the mold itself, brushing a small amount of silicone rubber will prevent the mold from getting bubbles.

Also, pouring slowly and having a couple of air holes distributed amongst the top of you item, preferably in a discreet area, will help prevent bubbles from forming in your item.

For example, a PG-7 rocket could have a pouring hole at the nose with an air hole in the middle of the rocket head and one at the end of the rocket. Best place for air holes though is the high points on your model, IMO.

Also, if you have a PG-7 that disassembles, you could do it in parts and use the pressure pot for those. Not sure it would be worth it though but it's a thought.

 

[riflemaniv]

Check this out:

Field green or interior green may work?
http://www.testors.com/category/135894/Enamel_Paints

or

http://www.testors.com/category/136474/WWII_Russian_Colors Hard to tell with these.

 

[Richard W.]

They look just about perfect.

i'll pick some up. thanks for the link.

 

[big_johnson_92]

I found this color Rustoleum at Walmart:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24&sid=250705

They call it fern. It seems pretty yellow to me.

 

[Tantal]

I found this color Rustoleum at Walmart:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=24&sid=250705
They call it fern. It seems pretty yellow to me.

Thank you, you are the man!

I looked online and found several items people have painted with that color, and it looks very close to some Soviet items to me, with just the right gloss level to boot. Wish it was a tad browner, but it's as close as I've ever seen in a ready to use can. I need it for all sorts of stuff, so I appreciate the heads up. I'm gonna give it a whirl on some grenades and go from there.