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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a Yugo M90 RPK in 7.62x39. Very awesome to add to my collection of Yugo's and now my collection is complete for as far as I want to take it. However, my Yugo RPK detent pin for the muzzle nut, won't retract. Basically it doesn't move backward at all. No signs of tack welds or anything, the pin just won't move. FYI- these RPK's are awesome, they even have a quick detach bi-pod.

7
 

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Not posting pics. Just need to find out if they used a solid pin for the main detent pin on the muzzle.

No, they did not. It is a regular spring loaded pin from the factory. IF it is an "X-Out" model where the original info was scratched/scrubbed, then maybe it was replaced on the dock to fix the muzzle device for one less 922(r) requirement, but is not an approved method for doing so at this date.
 

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Ives seen AKs FSB's with an odd detente FS pin. Looks like the thumb latch on an older AR15/M16 round kicker. A small extension with serrations to make the FS more easily removed or adjusted. No names but they were modern builds.
 

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Yes, when Mitchell had to "ban" the rifles per ATF instructions they had to fix the muzzle device. They did not pin or weld them they removed the spring in the detent and replaced it with a solid pin. I have had over a dozen Mitchell M90s and they were all like that. It is however easy to fix.
 

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Chawkpilot,
I am in the same boat with my Mitchell arms m90. I saw how they just lined up the slot on the flash hider and the detent hole, and pounded a pin in. How do you recommend your approach to an "easy fix" I have not had the guts to attempt the fix, as I figured I would just mess it up.
Thanks
 

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Chawkpilot,
I am in the same boat with my Mitchell arms m90. I saw how they just lined up the slot on the flash hider and the detent hole, and pounded a pin in. How do you recommend your approach to an "easy fix" I have not had the guts to attempt the fix, as I figured I would just mess it up.
Thanks
Yep that's how they did it. They removed the taper pin that holds the detent in the FSB and replaced the spring with a solid pin, screwed on the flash hider, hammered the detent past the slot in the flash hider, then reinstalled the taper pin to hold it in place. Easy fix but you need a new detent and spring first of all. I then took my Dremel and very carefully cut thru the top half of the detent pin. You cant cut all the way thru it or you will cut into the flash hider. Once it was cut as far as I could I took a hammer and punch and drove out the taper pin that holds the detent in place in the FSB. Once the taper pin is out you can take a small pair of needle nose pliers and rotate the detent so that the cut part is on the bottom. That will allow you to cut thru the remainder of the detent pin. Once you are thru it the flash hider will just screw off as normal. On all the ones I did as soon as the flash hider was off I just tilted the rifle up and the remainder of the cutoff detent pin as well as the dead pin just fell out of the FSB. Then just insert the spring, new detent, and reinstall the taper pin to hold it in place. That's it...pretty easy as long as you don't get carried away with the Dremel tool. Patience is your friend...
 

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Just FYI., unless Mitchell used special replacement pins in the FSB., a Serbian component pin is not tapered. It is a 2.5mm straight cut dowel pin.:) vs the 3mm standard AKM etc.

corrected brain disconnect., thanks type 56-1.
 

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2.5 mm
 

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Just FYI., unless Mitchell used special replacement pins in the FSB., a Serbian component pin is not tapered. It is a 2.5mm straight cut dowel pin.:) vs the 3mm standard AKM etc.

corrected brain disconnect., thanks type 56-1.
They just used the original pin. No need to replace it though I only tapped them out enough to clear the detent pin. I removed the very first one and it was a bitch to get back in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They just used the original pin. No need to replace it though I only tapped them out enough to clear the detent pin. I removed the very first one and it was a bitch to get back in...
So it has two pins inside the block or one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It has a solid pin in place of the spring behind the detent pin.

How did they put it together? So basically you cut the pin area to it can clear the muzzle device remove material from the top. Then you drift out the sight block barrel pin in the front. Rotate the cut detent pin 180 degrees. Remove muzzle device. Tilt the front down so the rear pin comes out that is located where the spring normally would be. Then stab hand with screwdriver for having to do all this. I actually think I might have figured out how they did it. They put the detent pins in without the cross pins then let everything shift forward, then put the cross pins back in.
 
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