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Photos-Tantal receiver w/selector markings from AKB flat

1059 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  555th
14
Here are a few photos of a Tantal receiver and a Romy receiver. They are both AK-Builder flats bent with his jig with top rail step down.

I used a 3/32" stamp set to make the selector markings. The markings on the left side of the Tantal receiver (CPS) are too small but I think they look ok. I'm going to get a 1/8" set and see how they look. The left side stamps on a real Tantal are 177 thousands and my 3/32" stamp set makes letters 125 thousands. Go figure??? So I guess a 1/8" set might be closer to 177. We'll see. I have one on order.

The Tantal receiver has not had the top rails milled yet so you can see what they look like when they come out of the jig. The Romy receiver has had the rails milled so you can see that too. I dont have photos of a receiver with the lower rails welded in but I will soon. I'll post them when I get them. Hopefully this weekend. :wink:

I just wanted to show yall what the akbuilder jig can do. Worth every cent if you want to build the best. :smile:





























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Very nice job!!!
The step-downs add a nice touch to a flat. Do you get an even amount of step-down side to side, about 0.063?

You might want to remove a bit of material on the right side just after the trunnion cut from the nominal AK builder rail width dimension to an 0.145 width for about half an inch to allow brass ejection clearance. The Maadis and NDS-1 have the clearance.

I need some stamps.
ammoboy2 said:
The step-downs add a nice touch to a flat. Do you get an even amount of step-down side to side, about 0.063?

You might want to remove a bit of material on the right side just after the trunnion cut from the nominal AK builder rail width dimension to an 0.145 width for about half an inch to allow brass ejection clearance. The Maadis and NDS-1 have the clearance.

I need some stamps.
I havent measured the step down side to side. Is .063 what the original stubs had for step down? I havent measured the step down on a stub. I do know that the bolt carrier rides VERY nicely in these receivers. No up and down slop like in unstepped receivers.

I do remove extra material for ejection clearance. I do that after I weld in the rails because on the originals that cut out goes back as far as the ejector tip on the lower left rail. So I see where my rail ends up and then use that as a guide for that cut-out. A little anal maybe but I like them perfect. One of the guys I build with says I help him to care a little more about how his builds look. Says we kinda balance each other out while building. :smile:
The 0.063 inches is equivalent to 1.6mm. I have never measured a milled receiver to verify but 1.6mm is what I thought the rail thickness for the AK. The step-downs are of course the designers' method to approximate the thickness of the orginal design in sheet metal.

I thought making the ejection clearance cut easier prior to lower rail and/or trunnion installation.
ammoboy2 said:
The 0.063 inches is equivalent to 1.6mm. I have never measured a milled receiver to verify but 1.6mm is what I thought the rail thickness for the AK. The step-downs are of course the designers' method to approximate the thickness of the orginal design in sheet metal.

I thought making the ejection clearance cut easier prior to lower rail and/or trunnion installation.
I havent measured a milled receivers top rails either. I'm sure someone here can enlighten us? Yes the step down was to get that thickness back for I think a few reasons. It strengthens the rails, during forming it squares up the bends, and to keep the carrier from riding up and over the sear instead of staying down and tripping it. Of course we are not worried about tripping the sear. I like the step down because it squares the bends, adds strength to the rails, reduces carrier slop and because it just plain looks way better!

Its just as easy for me to mill that ejection clearance after the lower rails are in. I dont rivet my trunnion before I install my lower rails because I fully heat treat the receiver. You dont want to do that step with the trunnion in. The first few AK-builder flats I built on I didnt trust them like I do now. Now I just line up the front trunnion with the front of the receiver, clamp in, then I use that to place my lower rails. I leave a very small gap between the rear of the trunnion and the front of the rails. That way during final fitment I can move the trunnion back a little if I need to for mag fitment. So far these flats are always perfect. Curtis did a great job on them.
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Damn that's sexy :shock: I might have to borrow that jig one day LOL
Kayenne said:
Damn that's sexy :shock: I might have to borrow that jig one day LOL
Your welcome to come use it. I wont let anyone borrow it but ... I'll let you use it with me watching to make sure you dont break my $300 jig. :wink:

If you doing a good number of kits its worth it to buy the right tools. I added up the cost of all the tools needed to bend flats + the flats themselves and compared that to the cost of buying NDS receivers and I was better off going with flats. Plus I really enjoy building from flats, its alot of fun. Very rewarding.
Flats have come a long way!!! Very Nice work!!
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