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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new AK had a little white fuzz (like battery terminal corrosion) around one of the rivets. It came right off but I want to neutralize this stuff so the bleed out and corrosion does not continue. I have a couple of air rifles that have the same thing going on where the barrel goes into the breech block and I'd like to take care of them as well. I've read that you should clean well, submerge in white vinegar for a while, rinse and then oil. Anybody done this? If so how did it work out for you? I see that Brownells has stuff to do this but if I can save the 40 bucks and do it with more common materials, I'd like to try that first.
 

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I have a friend that works in a local gunsmith work shop and handles all the metal refinish work.
He does some great work matching bluing to the original finish!
He has an oil bath he uses after the work is done.
However, as noted above "bloom" can still occur.

What he recommends to neutralize the salts in these spot areas (such as where metal contacts metal) is vinegar (of the type you use in your kitchen).
It is what I do, followed by an application of oil.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you just use the vinegar full strength and submerge? If so, for how long? Would warming it (or the metal) up help?

Thanks for the responses guys.
 

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Do you just use the vinegar full strength and submerge? If so, for how long? Would warming it (or the metal) up help?

Thanks for the responses guys.
I use the vinegar undiluted, applied to the SPOT with a Q-tip.
I then wipe away the residue and apply gun oil.
Sometimes if the "bloom" has been on the spot/area too long the bluing is gone and bare metal remains.
It those cases I have used a touch of G-96 or Brownells touch up cold blue.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Richard. I did this today but finished with CLP rather than gun oil. Hopefully that will do it.
 

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I thought the problem with the salts was that they are hygroscopic and are pulling in water from the air which leads to the rust... I thought that is what makes them "corrosive," more than the fact that they are coming from a solution of concentrated base. I would have thought that "neutralizing" the salts with acetic acid is dealing primarily with the excess of hydroxide more than the excess of sodium... and that if the vinegar is doing anything it is really mostly the 95% water which is dissolving the salts and allowing them to be washed away. The neutralization product of NaOH and vinegar is still a salt... (sodium acetate) which is still hygroscopic, so in theory should still lead to rust if it remains on the metal.

I've used an acetone dip (to degrease) followed by a 25 minute distilled water boil to desalt my parts, I follow by an oven baking at 200 deg F to dry, and then a RIG grease coating for long term storage or a gun oil for intermediate storage... I tried WD-40, but didnt get the results I expected from it. I've used this to desalt and store Nodak receivers which rust easily in GA if left untended.
 

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Brush and wd40 should work ok. Wipe clean afterwards, and give it a light coat of clp (or frog lube).
 
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