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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be documenting my build so that others wanting to do similar will have a thread to refer to. I will be using the NoDak Y-556 square back receiver, and laying it out for the Bulgarian type side folder assembly from Ak-Builder.com. Due to the complete flat bottom of the 74 barrel trunnion, I opted to open my pocket a bit larger than others have done to insure no clearance issues come up. I followed AKBLUE's advice and cut the shelf to 2mm (.079) below the surface. [ Note: I would recommend changing the .416 dimension to .386, and the .475 dimension to .449 ]





The holes in the front trunnion and bottom of the receiver are done with a #21 and a 6mm drill. The #21 hole in the trunnion is drilled perpendicular with the top rail of the receiver. After drilling the hole in the trunnion that is out of the receiver with no barrel you can put the trunnion into the receiver and drill back down through the hole into the receiver to make a pilot hole for the 6mm drill from the top.

 

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I'm definitely interested in seeing this build as it progresses. Keep the pictures coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK, fitting with the Kyber spirit, Curtis convinced me we should do the 300 AAC Blackout. Fresh from the lathe, a 16" 300 BLK barrel, and fake suppressor(barrel shroud) :dance: :hail:
 

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rbthntr64 said:
OK, fitting with the Kyber spirit, Curtis convinced me we should do the 300 AAC Blackout. Fresh from the lathe, a 16" 300 BLK barrel, and fake suppressor(barrel shroud) :dance: :hail:
I emailed curtis last year to see if he could custom make me a 300 blackout barrel to convert my M85 kit, but got no reply so my kit still sits in the box. :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NXCHESTER said:
rbthntr64 said:
OK, fitting with the Kyber spirit, Curtis convinced me we should do the 300 AAC Blackout. Fresh from the lathe, a 16" 300 BLK barrel, and fake suppressor(barrel shroud) :dance: :hail:
I emailed curtis last year to see if he could custom make me a 300 blackout barrel to convert my M85 kit, but got no reply so my kit still sits in the box. :evil:
He didn't have enough demand last year to make them, and the fact that 300 BLK was new to the market. There has to be enough demand to warrant setting up the machines. To set up the machine and make one or two would put the price of the barrel at several hundred dollars. He has a couple new machines and an awesome CNC machinist now. The barrel I got from him is a prototype so we can see what it takes to make it work. I have only seen one that was chambered in 300 BLK. He always tests stuff first before he makes a run. When this rifle is complete, and functioning, and if it is reliable, he will be offering them in a chrome lined version.
 

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What twist rate is it? I have an M85 kit set aside for 300 .Seems some suppessed folks are trending 1/7.
I have not found a 1/7 blank yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The prototype is 1/8. AFAIK that is what was desired by the people requesting them from him. The other issue is the blank manufacturers. If it is not a common twist, it is rarely made. If a special order is made, there is a minimum quantity and the price is commensurate. I am being told that without an adjustable gasblock there is no way to make this work. I will take a look at the existing GB and see if there is enough material to incorporate a adjustable system. As to the 1/7 twist in .308 bore, this is a non-standard blank and requires a minimum purchase of 100 blanks. The barrels would cost half the price of the kits or more once it reaches the consumer so not likely you will see them anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK after talking with Troy at InRange, and conversing with Curtis about the intention of this build, we will not be working with the sub-sonic end of the spectrum. Barrels will be in 1/8 twist, chromed, and 16" in length, once we test the prototype and are sure of reliable function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Back to my roots, I am following an old friends lead on the back of the receiver. Hcpookie has been synonymous in the home builders realm for many years. Here is the link to his page about the stock;
http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK/buttstock/folding_stock.htm
I will be using the Ak-builder stock and will be posting pics as I go. Here is the drawing from pookie's site. These are the dimensions that Curtis used and verified when he made his side folder flats.


And the stock;
 

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Interesting to see it done.

I have a M85 kyber being built by Ken Kubin right now. I made it harder with a Texas AK designs AR mag adapter.
 

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Tag for future.

Can't wait to see it finished as I just got a 92 pistol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Back to this. Guys I took Pookie's drawings and separated them out. I scaled them with my printer until the measurements on the drawing matched with a caliper. I then cut them out and stuck them to the receiver with some 3M 77 spray adhesive and cut to the lines. It came out very close and only required a little filing to get to final fit.





 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·




 

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rbthntr64, how does it shoot? Is the bolt face trashing the case heads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Build is still in progress. Several issues had to be resolved with the NoDak receiver. When I slid the front trunnion in, it did not flush with the front of the receiver. I filed the front of the rails to allow it to slide in a bit more. Then a mag would not go in the magwell because the center support is too far forward. I had to remove quite a bit to get the mag to rotate in. In order for the mag to sit up against the bottom of the rails, I had to completely remove material from the selector stop to allow the mag rear lug to sit against the bottom of the receiver. You can see in the picture where I removed the material.
Ak-Builder has a flat for the 5.45 RPK that would work well for this build for those that do not want to use a NoDak.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
More pics;



 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Another observation was the front stock latch. Although the dimensions are close, I would suggest reducing the side dimension to allow the hook to come out a bit more. probably about .030. In order for the pin retaining spring to lock in, I had to counter sink the hole a bit .020. This was Curtis' suggestion and it worked well.

 
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