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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new rifle came into my FFL a few weeks ok. Over the past several weeks, I've worked on it to make it run better and more comfortably.

Romanians seemed to have built a solid .22lr rifle. I'm impressed. Looks identical to my WASR 10/63.






Only issue so far was fitting my old WASR 10/63 AKM stock into the receiver. Not sure if this WASR 22 was built on an AK 74 receiver. If so, not sure if 74 receivers will even take 47 stocks. If anyone has insight on this, I'd appreciate that.

Finally have ran about 200rds through the rifle. Seems to work well, but not 100% reliable. Still have spent casings getting caught as a new round is being chambered; therefore causing jams. Usually happens once or twice a magazine. I'm running Black Dog Machine magazines, usually filled 25rds.



Since I got the rifle, I've done some mods to make it how I like it.
-Added wooden stock from my WASR 10/63
-Added pistol grip nut to attach a Romanian bakelite grip
-Added muzzle brake detent plunger pin/spring
-Attached Tapco Slot Muzzle Brake (for looks and to be the same as my WASR 10/63)
-Replaced lower handguard with an East German bulged handguard, doesn't wiggle anymore
-Replaced mag release with a TAK Latch
-Replaced WASR 22 top cover with top cover from my WASR 10/63

Currently have 4 30rd Black Dog Machine magazines, which run great, and 4 10rd Cugir Factory magazines. Not a fan of the 10rd mags since they're harder to change on the rifle.

It seems to shoot very accurately, just a little low. Need to adjust the sights, but overall I'm impressed with the tight groups. Even had an Army buddy come over to try it and he fired tight groups too; he's never used an AK platform rifle before.

Only need to tweak the rifle to prevent the jams. Anyone have ideas on how to plug the gas tube? Need to stop the spent brass from getting stuck there. Any other tips on preventing jams?

Planning on eventually replacing the gas block with a new one since this one has the bayonet lugs filed down. My bayonet will barely latch on. Not that I need a bayonet or want to use one, but want the rifle to be complete and ready to use one.
Not sure how hard it will be to remove the pins and push the front sight and gas block off.



Anyone have ideas or suggestions on making 10rd magazines into 30rd magazine bodies? Currently trying a Tapco 30rd body with a Cugir 10rd magazine guts, but the rounds will not feed. Seems like the magazine doesn't sit high enough or something.



Overall, this rifle has been well worth the time and money. Can't wait to use it some more.
 

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Generally the Romanians built crap .22 rifles. But, with a little tweaking to a LOT of reworking, depending on your rifle, they can be a blast to shoot.

The AKM and AK-74 stocks are interchangable. Just may need a little fitting from one rifle to another.

Grab some Black Dog magazines for your rifle. Avoid hollow points. Others will chime in...
 

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Just weld some"ears" onto the neutered bayonet lug and grind them into shape ( Bayo Lug Fix) and find a rubber or hard plastic plug that fits into vacant hole of gas system , and my WASR 10 stock did need a lot of "Fitting" so that is normal... The thread trees & old threads & information here are the best place on internet to research these little beasts (WASR 22/AKT 98/AKT 98-KK95/RPK 22/ M10 22)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tips. I have some silicon sealer around the house. Might try that soon.

What kind of material is typically used for Bayo Lug welding? I have a standard arc welder and use it for fence welding. With the intense heat, I figure I would have to remove the gas block and then weld on the ears.

I'm to the point now that this my favorite .22lr rifle, more so than my 10/22. This is funny considering that Midway finally filled my Ruger BX-25 magazine order from Dec. 2012.
 

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Yes, these use a 74 receiver. Get a cork and shove it into the gas tube. Easy fix
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Might try a cork.

Did you take the gas block off to weld on some material for the lug? I've done some welding and seen it burn/scorch nearby material. Just don't want to damage my barrel.
 

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Thanks for the tips. I have some silicon sealer around the house. Might try that soon.

What kind of material is typically used for Bayo Lug welding? I have a standard arc welder and use it for fence welding. With the intense heat, I figure I would have to remove the gas block and then weld on the ears.

I'm to the point now that this my favorite .22lr rifle, more so than my 10/22. This is funny considering that Midway finally filled my Ruger BX-25 magazine order from Dec. 2012.
If you pull off the gas block, you might want to just replace it with one with the bayonet lug. They're not terrible expensive. That's what I did with my WASR 22.
 

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No point in adding the lugs back to that one, just replace it with a Romy gas block that has lugs. You can replace them in about 30 minutes with a set of punches and a vise
 

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Only problem with replacing the gas block with a centerfire one that has lugs, is the barrel on a CF is thicker with some mfgs and the sleeve that gets pinned to the barrel will be wider. There is a variance in different countries so you will have to make sure you get a Romy one that might be an exact fit. Then there are the holes for the pins that might not line up. No big thing and easy to redrill. Since the block doesn't really do anything on a .22 and is just there for looks and to hold the upper hanguard in place.
Then there is the hilt of the bayonet that slides over the thinner .22 barrel end. That is wider as well. I guess a flash supressor can be modified to match the dia of the hilt. Looks like you have one already on there. If it matches, good. If it is thicker then it can be turned down and reblued. If it is thinner, then another one has to be located.
 

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That is not correct Viper, I have switched them out without any issue. The 22 barrel is tapered/stepped and the profile of the barrel where the gas block is, is the same as a center fire. I rarely found a gas block that was smaller or oversized. I own 6 of these rifles and have done some pretty extraordinary things to them. Even using a PSL gas block, a Bulgy 74 gas block and a Russian RPK gas block. Only the Russian RPK block required a bronze sleeve due to the heavy barrel used on the RPK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm probably going to go with the gas block replacement.

The barrel diameters and such seem very similar. Need to get out my calipers to be exact. However I didn't have an issue with the muzzle brake I choose. To be honest, looks identical to my WASR 10/63 setup.

Bayonets will work on my rifle, but the lugs being ground down cause it to wiggle and flop some. Ever rebuilding or replacement will allow for a snug fit.

Not necessary for the rifle to function, but more of looks and versatility. Never know when I'll need to use a bayonet.
 

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Hmmmm...ORM, I did run into to this on my AKT-98. The gasblock tube that connects to the upper handguard tube was dented and canted down so I went for a replacement. There was alot of slop approx 1/32" from the I.D. of the centerfire block. My front sight block was also canted a good amount and my CF replacement also had the 1/32" difference. I was lucky and able to get Romy 98 .22 parts from GPC and just 'payed it forward' to get rid of the CF blocks. I'm wondering if there is a slight difference between the AKT's and the WASR's? All is fine with my 98 and man....that steel is hard to drill & ream on the Romy. Use lots of cutting oil and go slow.
 

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I'll concur with ORM that the journals on the WASR-22 barrels are the same as standard AKM barrels. I've swapped out a couple gas blocks and front sight bases on mine. The muzzle is the same diameter also. I use a standard 14x1 L die to thread them with a 5.45 TAT. Works like a champ.

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I had the seller thread my barrel before he sent it to me. Very nice threading, well worth the extra money. Muzzle brake isn't needed for a .22lr, but makes it look uniform with my other rifle.

I'm probably going to try punching the pins out and putting a new gas block on, probably be a good weekend project. Have to read some good tutorials on it.

However my class work is becoming more pressing than gunsmithing, so I can only do some much in my free time.
 
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