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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, newer member here. I'm building my wasr to hunt with, primarily hog and coyote, maybe deer. I recently installed a shark type muzzle brake along with a 1" butt pad and recoil buffer. It is very shooter friendly now. My question is about the brake. When fully threaded on to where the plunger locks it in place, it has a slight wabble to it. This bothers me. I put some loctite on it and it seems to have fixed it, but will the loctite last or should I tac weld it in place like the thread protector was that came on it? I am a capable welder and I have access to a MIG welder and gas. Any good reason not to? Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

I wouldn't do anything permanent to it. If you go to sell it down the road, a buyer is probably going to want the option of being able to change the device.

Any bullet strikes? Does the wobble affect accuracy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't had any bullets strike the brake yet. It still repeats pretty well. I still need to re-sight my scope because poi did change slightly. But repeatability, again, is the same. Keep in mind I used loctite. I just wonder if it will last after its shot more.
 

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It's really. really rare to have bullet strikes, but it does happen sometimes. Loctite is a step beyond what most people would do to secure a muzzle device. Most of the time, a little wiggle isn't going to be much of a game changer.

These guns aren't exactly precision instruments, although they are more accurate than people give them credit for.

Keep shooting it to see if the loctite holds.
 

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Teflon tape on the threads like plumbers use is a good alternative to loc-tite when it comes to muzzle devices.

-otus
 

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Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. It's a AK, no a AR.

If it really bothers you then thread the brake on tight, mark the detent on the brake, remove it and make a new notch. A lot better than working with locktite that will burnout when hot.
 

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The best fix is to tighten the muzzle device until it is snug to the front sight base (FSB). This will indicate how much of a full turn it will take to index the muzzle device onto the plunger and be snug against the FSB..
Sand or file the rear of the muzzle device evenly and slowly until it indexes on the plunger and is snug to the FSB..
If using sand paper 100 grit etc., simply work the device back & forth evenly. Test fit often so as not to remove too much and go past the indexing point of the plunger.
 

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Thanks for the replys. To make a new notch for the plunger wouldn't work because its a shark brake, its directional. http://rouschsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/AK-47-Shark-Muzzle-Brake-1.jpg
Sanding the base sounds like something I could do. Teflon tape sounds like another possibility. I even thought about making shimms out of some really thin metal.
You have it right. Reducing the area in the rear of the device is the cleanest and best solution. No tape, washers or goo or cutting plunger notches. Some cold blue on the filed/sanded area or a quick shot of black paint and done.
 

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The brake on my Tantal was very loose. I made a new spacer washer by drilling and flat sanding a regular old flat washer to fit snugly. There's enough flex and vibration in the ak system without the brake adding to the barrel harmonics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine did not have a brake on it when I got it. Just a nut welded on. I cut the weld and removed the nut. I just don't understand the logic of "its an AK, its supposed to be a sloppy mess." Why would we settle for that when we have the ability to do better.
Regardless, I got a file and some sandpaper and spent about an hour working on it. It fits tight now, also I added some high temp red loctite to the threads. I am much happier with it now that what I think I would have been if I welded it. Thanks for the replys guys.
Oh, BTW, my AK is neat and clean, I shoot better than 2 MOA to.
 

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I put a high temp O ring between the brake and the FSB.
Many of the aftermarket muzzle devices come w/one, so I figured it would be fine.
But, like they say, a bit of float is pretty normal.
 

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Loose muzzle device

I tried blue loc tite first on my slant brake but it didn't hold up over time, then I tried a compression washer I notched for the lock pin, but that broke where I'd notched it. Finally filed down the back and that has stayed tight. When I swapped the slant with a Tapco I did the same, it's stayed tight.
 

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Hey guys, newer member here. I'm building my wasr to hunt with, primarily hog and coyote, maybe deer. I recently installed a shark type muzzle brake along with a 1" butt pad and recoil buffer. It is very shooter friendly now. My question is about the brake. When fully threaded on to where the plunger locks it in place, it has a slight wabble to it. This bothers me. I put some loctite on it and it seems to have fixed it, but will the loctite last or should I tac weld it in place like the thread protector was that came on it? I am a capable welder and I have access to a MIG welder and gas. Any good reason not to? Thanks in advance.
AKBLUE has given you the best solution. I would just add that since you mentioned that it originally had a thread protector welded on that you may need to clean up and make sure that the sight base is flat where the old tac weld was since I have seen many that just had the old tac weld cut but left a small mound on the front sight that would keep a muzzle device from seating flat when fitting one as AKBLUE described.
 

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+1^ on both. I took two nights awhile ago to tighten up all my muzzle brakes and used the file method. Just placed a flat file on top of a throw away rag and put that on top of my cleaning mat and went to work. I use a few muzzle brakes that have multiple indents so they did take much filing. I also noticed that a couple of my guns did have a little mound where it looked like the importer cut off the muzzle protector themselves and put on a slant. Just wrap your barrel threads with a good amount of duct tape and I used a flat stone on my Dremel and took the like mound off. :cool:
 
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