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I have two theroies:

1 - Rinse out with water to remove any particles created during the manuf. practice.

2 - These aren't "dedicated fuel jugs" because of all the EPA BS. So we have to rinse them out before we put our wine in there :wink: :wink:

Kinda like the companies that advertise parts kits "for replacement only".
 

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wgallc said:
Those are pre-ban jugs.

Post ban jugs are a different color. :roll:

It's true. Any new gas can isnt worth a crap because of all the CARB/EPA shit on it. And try finding new Jerry Cans that take the old nozzles....
 

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Slinger646 said:
I have two theroies:

1 - Rinse out with water to remove any particles created during the manuf. practice.

2 - These aren't "dedicated fuel jugs" because of all the EPA BS. So we have to rinse them out before we put our wine in there :wink: :wink:

Kinda like the companies that advertise parts kits "for replacement only".
not water
 
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Slinger646 said:
Rinse with Unocal Red Racing Fuel?
Too expensive to waste. I have two of these for the track and all you really have to do is rinse with water and blow them out with compressed air. Just make sure they're dried out before you put fuel in them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, I'll rinse them out with water and blow out with air.

I picked up a few of these since scepters have gotten insane expensive.

Uh....not that I would ever risk spilling a couple drops of some petroleum product and giving a poor snail darter an upset tummy. :roll:
 

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These jugs are not intended to contain fuel or kerosene in the state of California. Putting fuel or kerosene in these jugs in California is not permitted and will violate California law.
and how often do they check the markings on jugs or write tickets for this
 

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I was expecting sumpin a little more "bouncier" from Jegs dang it.
 

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These stlye of fuel containers are manufactured using a process known as "Rotational Molding". Small balls of a premeasured amount of polyethyethylene thermoplastic is placed into one of the two halves of the mold and then the two halves are clamped closed. The machine it is placed on, then rotates the die or die set in all directions, all the time heating the polyethylene balls (or whatever type of material they choose) and they then melt evenly onto the die walls. The time varies depending on the size of the product. This is used to produce thick wall products. like the container, port a potties, Windsurfer sail boards, etc.

This process is different than milk containers, they are blow molded and very thin unlike the fuel container.

When the timed process is complete it is allowed to cool and then removed, the parting line or flash is then removed with a sharp tool on the inside and the outside. There may still be some of this debris inside the container so it will need to be flushed usually with what ever you will be storing in to the container (gas, kerosene, oil, etc).

This flush step is important not only to remove any of the left over parting line from the two halves of the die, but also the silicone mold release agent used in the molding process that allows the container to be easily removed from the die. This release agent is very strong may contaiminate whatever you may be storing in the container, so it is a good practice to perfrom this flush step.

On the other hand you can skip this step and take your chances if used on your car, boat, truck, or plane and may end up with a clogged fuel/oil line or filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the replies!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I finally got around to getting these squared away.

Rinsed them out first with water, and then gas. Quite a bit of red, powdery debris came out both with the water and then the gas. I'm sure this would go a long way towards clogging your fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've been using 6 of these to store gas for about a month. The lid cracked on two of them.

The good news is that I called Jegs, and they immediately sent me two complete replacement jugs. We'll see how the rest of them hold up.
 
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