AK Rifles banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What kind of tools do you all use to install the rear trunnion rivets? I'm trying to install a folder trunnion and am hesitant to start without an idea of how I'm going to finish it! :)


Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
462 Posts
That depends on what tools you have, if you have a press the easy way to go is the AK-builder jig (also the most expensive).
You could buy or build a rivet squeezer like on this site.

http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK/do ... rivets.htm

Or use a Impact/Air Hammer type riveter if you have a good air compressor.
Or there is the AK Long Rivet Jig from Gun Things, if you can get by the good looking lady on the first page.

http://www.gunthings.com/
Click on the AK47 & AK74 link to the left.
Good Luck with your rivets, and remember any tools you buy or build you can resell on this forum. I sure there is someone out there needing to do the same thing you just did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
In my opinion the gunthings jig is all you need to do long rivits..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
SaigaNoobie
Watch the videos on pressing rivets.
http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16295

You stated riveting a "folder trunnion" I assume you are putting a triangle folder.

I made this and after some grinding to the end have had lots of luck with riveting triangle folders.

It cost about $8 in scrap steel.



I use a 20ton press used to push on the small shaft.


I used my rivet press on all of the rivets for these with it.


For the full length rivets I use the gunthings long rivet press on full stock rear trunnions. Get the backing plate too, its just a couple of bucks but well worth it. I use the front trunnion press for support in pressing the barrel back in(it needed to be modified a little).

You don't need to spend a ton of $$ for squeezing rivets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
SaigaNoobie said:
There's a huge difference between macgyvering a Saiga 7.62x39 conversion, and macgyvering a rivet job.
Ill say there is some truth to that. Now mentioning its a Saiga conversion from originally asking about squeezing rivets :eek: . You are definetly tackling an advanced builder project.

I have access to a full machine shop and would not spend the time tinkering on that job. Kudos to you for taking on such a project. Keep us updated in how you go at the conversion.

Renting the AKbuilder jig for $50 might go further if you offered a $200 deposit in addition. In the end you would be $200 ahead if someone bites on the deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,359 Posts
You could always buy a jig and sell it for $50 off the top when you were through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
tangotag said:
SaigaNoobie said:
There's a huge difference between macgyvering a Saiga 7.62x39 conversion, and macgyvering a rivet job.
Ill say there is some truth to that. Now mentioning its a Saiga conversion from originally asking about squeezing rivets :eek: . You are definetly tackling an advanced builder project.

I have access to a full machine shop and would not spend the time tinkering on that job. Kudos to you for taking on such a project. Keep us updated in how you go at the conversion.

Renting the AKbuilder jig for $50 might go further if you offered a $200 deposit in addition. In the end you would be $200 ahead if someone bites on the deal.
I'm sticking a Polymer 5.5mm Side Folder on my Saiga 12 Shotgun. :dance:

I'm sure I can handle everything up to and including the Rivets if i have the right tools.

So all I need is:

Press
Rivet Tools
Patience

Anyone in Florida with all of those as well? Maybe I can come up and we can do it all together! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,359 Posts
If all you need to do is press 5 rivets I'm sure you could turn it back around for just shy of what you bought it for. Even better, I'll bet there's someone that can probably help you out so you don't have to buy one. I would post up in 'general' to see if anybody is near you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,548 Posts
SaigaNoobie said:
I'm sticking a Polymer 5.5mm Side Folder on my Saiga 12 Shotgun.
squeezing rivets...7.62 Saiga conversion...now a Saiga 12 Shotgun I am confused?? :confused:

If you are not a member yet at Saiga-12 you might want to join.
Here is a thread dedicated to the modification of a Saiga 12 Shotgun to AKS-12.
http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=5178&st=0

How much room is there under the barrel trunnion for the sidefolder latch on the Saiga 12? What type of modifications need to be done there? Could you post a pic with the handguard off showing the area available between the barrel and the receiver?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Tangotang,

I'm indeed a member of Saiga-12.com and have done a 7.62x39 conversion (my first... and without a drill or really the proper tools) and then a Saiga-12 conversion (with a drill and better tools).

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?sho ... 21197&st=0

Is a better view of the conversion I'm attempting.

There is a special latch designed for the Saiga 12 that I already have.

Basically I have to remove the old trunnion, cut the holes, cut the rear of the receiver for the folding hinge and hole for the locking mechanism, and then rivet the whole thing back together. I'm confident I can accomplish everything but the riveting at this point.

Is this a hefty project? Yes. But easy things aren't any fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,635 Posts
I use two dimpled steel plates. One supports the pre-formed head, and the other goes on the bitter end. Put the supporting plate under the pre-formed head, then slowly and softly hammer the bitter end until it begins to mushroom. The purpose of this step is to get it to expand outside the receiver, so when you press on it it won't fold over and collapse down inside the rivet hole.

Once it has a good start to the head, put the second plate over the newly forming head, then close you press (or vise) on it. If you aligned the second plate correctly the two plates will be parallel, and parallel to the receiver surface. If they stay this way as you very slowly crush them, you will get good rivet heads.

My jig costs about $5.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,722 Posts
my-rifle said:
I use two dimpled steel plates. One supports the pre-formed head, and the other goes on the bitter end. Put the supporting plate under the pre-formed head, then slowly and softly hammer the bitter end until it begins to mushroom. The purpose of this step is to get it to expand outside the receiver, so when you press on it it won't fold over and collapse down inside the rivet hole.

Once it has a good start to the head, put the second plate over the newly forming head, then close you press (or vise) on it. If you aligned the second plate correctly the two plates will be parallel, and parallel to the receiver surface. If they stay this way as you very slowly crush them, you will get good rivet heads.

My jig costs about $5.
A big +1 on this, it's the only way to go, I have riveted about 70-80 rifles long rivets this way and it always works, I sold my long rivet jig as I thought it was a joke. All you need is a hammer, 2 rivet bucks and a press.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top