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Discussion Starter #2
YEAH, the pics worked. i have crappy internet. ANY ways. DO not try this at home, this was done by a professional idiot, and is not to be attempted by amutuer idiots.........joking. but seriously guys, the last pic of it being all welded was because I went over all the welds again. After wailing on it with a framing hammer to check the welds, one developed a crack. taking no risks I re-did ALL of the welds. had to fab my own rear from an akm trunnion. I cut most of it off and made my own upper tang and welded it all into the reciever. the inside rails that came with vz58's blanks were a little thin so I made my own out of 1/8 stock. it's ready for test fire, not going to clean up my welds untill it holds out for at least a 100rds. I don't trust this thing, so build at your own risk, I'm not responsible.
 

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Very nice, I need a rear for my hungy too.
 

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Virtually all stresses are in the intact front stub. Basically the welds hold rest of the gun together behind the stub. Think about it this way, 6 rivits hold a stamped 1.0mm shell to the front trunnion on a stamped build, here youve got what 2-3" of steel welded to hold it. If you had taken a hammer to a stamped gun what would have happened to it?


the rails on stamped guns are .065" or less, I supply .065", the milled guns did have thicker lower rails, .070" to .098" is what I have measured, but the extra was not needed, hence the thinner lower rails on later guns.


Now shoot it!
 

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Those welds do have to put up with the carrier slamming back over and over. So good welds are needed.

What did you weld it with? Weldment material?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah, the FCG had to be shaved to fit, just the hammer though, the trigger was fine. I still have no clue as to how the pins are gonna be held in place, the walls on this thing are too thick for regular e-clips to work. I welded with a crappy wire feed welder, so that would explain the hammer, it's not the front i'm worried about, but my fabbed rear end, i didn't want the thing failing and ripping my face off. I only used a little piece of the akm rear end, the thing that holds the recoil assembly and top cover in place, the rest got cut off and replaced with a type III upper tang and shaved to fit the typeIII stock and welded in place. I'll post a pic of the rear end later, looks ok actually, well I gots to run to work.

btw the rails really don't NEED to be thick, I just liked them that way.
 

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For the FCG pins 2 front pins from a m64 work perfect or, baring that just counter sink the heads. A $4 end mill in a drill press does it nicely.
 

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How's it shoot?
What finish are you going to use?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the sights had drifted off over the years and I forgot the sight tool at home so It shot flat to the right really bad. So I'll have to go back and re-do. Every thing works great, after about 45 rounds it cycled perfectly (was sticking on the hammer like most new builds). As far as finish goes I'm thinking of cleaning up my tool marks and polishing to match the top cover and blueing like the original. I've had good results with Super-blue on my double-barrel 12ga. Came out a nice black chrome looking finish. So i might try that. welds held out fine. It was a challange cause I had no rear stub, but hey life would be boring that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #19



here's the latest pic. Still work to do but now it has a hungarian leather sling, five hungarian mags and a hungarian mag pouch to go with it all............. :goof:

the wood was refinished and polished and sanded several times betweem coats of stain and stain/dark walnut stain mix.
 
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