First I want to say how good it is to be part of this forum and not to be alone in basement with all my AK issues. Now my current issue, I have been heat treating my lower AK rails with a MAPP torch, since I began building. This method has worked fine and rails wear and function flawlessly on all my projects. Lately and I have to add after I switched from Tapco to AK-Builder flats, which are thicker and undrilled, I find that my heat treated rails are tough to drill through? The longer drilling time has caused me to egg some holes, which keeps me up at night. I drill right through the receiver then I hit the rail, like a brick wall? Is the thicker AK-Builder rail screwing with my heat treating or is it something else. Should I try and drill the holes in the receiver and rails before I heat treat or spot weld them in place, or just reassess my Heat Treat Process? Any ideas, or alternative methods out there for the home builder on Heat Treating rails ?
Loyal11475
Heat Treating AK Lower Rails ?
well, first i like to use cobalt bits st a slow as possible speed.
they should go right thru any heat treated rail with ease.
they should go right thru any heat treated rail with ease.
You've really jumped full on into this building stuff havent you? :allright:
You need to drill a pilot hole first. Since the rails are so much thicker than the receiver the drill will do like you say and walk around on the rail, egging the receiver. Plus your center support wont be in the correct place, it might end up crooked since your hole is off.
Get a good sharp 1/8" cobalt drill and use some cutting fluid or even wd-40, motor oil, whatever. After you drill the 1/8" hole then goto your 5/32" drill and it should be cake.
Did you get your center support riveting problems worked out?
You need to drill a pilot hole first. Since the rails are so much thicker than the receiver the drill will do like you say and walk around on the rail, egging the receiver. Plus your center support wont be in the correct place, it might end up crooked since your hole is off.
Get a good sharp 1/8" cobalt drill and use some cutting fluid or even wd-40, motor oil, whatever. After you drill the 1/8" hole then goto your 5/32" drill and it should be cake.
Did you get your center support riveting problems worked out?
Yes, I did not anticipate how much fun the art and challenge of building would be when I began ! At first building was just on the "Bucket List," build one or two cheap Romo's and then move on, but much to wifes regret its seems I am now hooked. The idea actually started out 20 years ago when I was in the ARMY, with an argument over which was the best close quarters, slug it out in the mug and grub, break it over the head, combat weapon the M-16 or the AK? I was defending the M-16.The argument ended when my ARMY buddy said "I hear the Afgans build, repair, and make parts for AK's over a fire, you can't do that with an M-16." He was right, you can't, as far as I know. Anyway, I will get a hold of some 1/8 Cobalt drill bits and start drilling pilot holes, I had just assumed that the small hole in the AK-Builder flat would suffice, but you know what they say when you assume! Do I need the shorter length bits? I am working with a Craftsman 10 inch Table Top Drill Press, with a keyless chuck which now that I am working with metal, I have come to despise. To tell you the truth, I don't know how to control the speed, but it has belts, so I intend to find out. The spot welding problem was resolved by tracing the circuit and moving to another outlet. I Think I wore out the household breaker on my first builds. Thanks, for asking, appreciate the advice !
Assume= (make an) ass (outta) u (and) meLoyal11475 said:
If you can get the shorter length machine bits, I would. They dont walk as bad.
What about the center support rivet?
On the Center Support, one issue was the hole egging. I had a Tapco receiver a few builds back that I basically rushed on and filed the Center Support holes instead of gently opening them up. What I ended up with combined with not having yet mastered my AK-Builder Rivet tool was movement of the rivet while it was being crushed. This left me with a crooked center support and a rivet that looked like a bent over nail. Since this time installing the Center Support makes me nervous, but I am slowly getting over it. I think the pilot hole will help ensure my 5/32 holes to be tight and percise. I guess that just leaves me with the smashed head, which and I could be wrong, seems not to have the broad head like my Rear Trunnion rivets. What should head look like? Is this normal, or should the smashed side have a wider head? Can't really crush the rivet anymore, without compounding my other nemesis the slight "Hour Glass" effect?
Look at the pics in this thread. It shows the center support from both sides. I used an ak-builder center support and rivet jig. Be sure you put the flat already formed head on the correct side! I have taken them too far and squeezed the receiver also. Now I take it slow and release the ram a few times to take a look and see where I am. Also be sure the bottom of the rivet it nice and square with the base of the rivet jig.Loyal11475 said:
Take a look....
http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=116616
Ok, my Center Support Rivets look like yours, so thats one victory. When I crush them with the rivet tool I rest the flat side of the Rivet on the small hardened AK-Builder Trigger Guard square block, so I get clearence from Trunnion Rivets. That is a beautiful receiver, now I have something to aspire to! Maybe I will try installing the Rails and Center Support, before the trunnions? So much to learn and consider, just when you think you have assembly figured out, you begin to feel like a novice all over again.... I am still using the dremill method on the rails with the AK-Builder Scribe Jig as a guide, they turn out nice, but what a mess all over me and my tiny shop. I have a HF Micro Mill (should have went bigger), but was not sure how to clamp the receiver in tight to mill the rails without it slipping around in the vise or on the table? I tried it a few receivers back using a milling vice and the receiver did not want to copperate with me. Did you make a jig to hold it or just use a standard clamping kit to hold the receiver?
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