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No need to act like your a victim.. you asked for feedback, and you got it.

Your rifle is fine. It just isn't an $1800 rifle. You may be able to get your $1200 back if you are patient. But you will always be competing with the $1000 or so Bulgarian guns. Having a high starting price is probably pushing away some buyers, because they don't think you will negotiate down to a more realistic price.

It's good to use Russian parts, but to get even close to your $1800 price... the conversion needed to be done completely. You just kind of went half way with it. Nothing wrong with that, lots of guys do it and end up with great rifles. They just aren't rifles that sell for a premium.
I didn't read his post and get the sense he was playing the victim. In any case, everything you else you posted along with the other posts in this thread are all accurate.
 

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Don't get upset man. Trust me, I've been exactly where you are. It's a nice looking gun and I'm sure it shoots fantastically. Problem is you have things going against you from the get go as far as value. 5.56 AKs just don't have a great resale value. The bayonet lug I believe referenced was the one on the gas block. If you got the last few parts and finished up the conversion you could get more I'm sure, but it's whether you will be spending more than you'll get at that point. Honestly, I'd eye hump some pictures of your Archer. I find them quite appealing.
 

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Y'all hate my Archer too? Well shucks, I was pretty excited about showing u guys my stuff:/ I dont really have anybody in my life to show. I'll come back when I Don't have a bunch of junk. I really did think my rifle was pretty good I put 1200 into it to get the Russian parts cuz I thought it would fetch a premium from a collector. Turns out it just made me look like a douche.
Man, it's a nice rifle but you asked us what we thought. After you labelled it "Russian Mil-Spec" and put a high price on it, then asked for honest opinions, that generated some pretty honest replies. lol, but don't take it the wrong way, man! We are glad you are here. and I love Archers so lets see it!

You guys may want to take a closer look, bayo lugs are there FSB was a Russian bit ordered from Legion, all Russian parts are from Legion and I have receipts. .
Are there two? There are two lugs on an AK-74, the one on the FSB and the one on the gas block. I called them both "bayonet lugs" out of habit, but the gas block lug (which used to be a bayonet lug on the AKM) is now called an "accessory lug".

The FSB you bought from Legion is a Russian take-off but it's not correct for an AK-101 since it's from the 1980's and is a different style. The reason I said it was probably Bulgarian is because people that convert Saiga's like this fashion normally do not go to the expense of ading a true Russian front sight base, then adding such shortcut style parts elsewhere like the multi-piece clamp on LHGR and that independently attached trigger guard.

It would have been better for you to have installed "cheap Bulgarian parts" (which are mil-spec) in those two instances, rather than putting non-mil-spec US-made convenience parts and calling it "Russian Mil-Spec". You just had to know the difference, but it was just too much work, right?

I can't blame you, it is a lot more work. It's also well worth the effort. In fact, stick around a bit and we will convince you of this in short order, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Thanks for the info! No :( it only has the one front lug. U are right. The rear one appears to be effectively neutered. I came up with a good solution though. I am going to raffle it. 20 bucks a ticket. I'm not going to see too many. Probably 150. Someone gets a rifle for 20 bucks and i get well over my asking price. I plan to donate a portion of the premium to my local PD. I will post a pic of my Archer asap
 

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That suppressor would look kick ass with the barrel cut back some. There's definitely a lot going on there. As much as I normally don't like it, I actually like the Aimpoint on there. Maybe because it kind of looks like a PK. How does it handle suppression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
It handles it pretty well . It likes 5.56 better than the lower pressures of .223 both will cycle alright but .223 gets some FTE from time to time. Removing the suppressor remedies this. As it goes, what looks like an aimpoint patrol is actually a Vortex Strikefire II. I actually can't say enough positive things about it. Keymod fore-end is by Strike Industries it's a modular bit. And of course the Canis Stanag adapter. This rifle is 1 inch MOA accurate. I have it set up as a DMR, a role it fits well enough for sure. This rifle has NEVER had a FTF. Ever. The quality the Poles put into these weapons is unbelievable.every detail is there to make it more Beryl-esque. They included the left side selector, which u must be VERY careful with if u try to take it out or disassemble it. I had a gunsmith do it and they failed miserably. The reason why caution must be used: rifle will go Full auto if the selector is out of place or too far forward. I had to permanently affix it so I didn't get myself into legal trouble. It was fun while it lasted though. Have u guys heard of anything like this? Even now the sear hook doesn't seem to be catching the hammer at all. I will post a pic of its innards and let u guys take a look. Any advice is welcome.
 

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It handles it pretty well . It likes 5.56 better than the lower pressures of .223 both will cycle alright but .223 gets some FTE from time to time. Removing the suppressor remedies this. As it goes, what looks like an aimpoint patrol is actually a Vortex Strikefire II. I actually can't say enough positive things about it. Keymod fore-end is by Strike Industries it's a modular bit. And of course the Canis Stanag adapter. This rifle is 1 inch MOA accurate. I have it set up as a DMR, a role it fits well enough for sure. This rifle has NEVER had a FTF. Ever. The quality the Poles put into these weapons is unbelievable.every detail is there to make it more Beryl-esque. They included the left side selector, which u must be VERY careful with if u try to take it out or disassemble it. I had a gunsmith do it and they failed miserably. The reason why caution must be used: rifle will go Full auto if the selector is out of place or too far forward. I had to permanently affix it so I didn't get myself into legal trouble. It was fun while it lasted though. Have u guys heard of anything like this? Even now the sear hook doesn't seem to be catching the hammer at all. I will post a pic of its innards and let u guys take a look. Any advice is welcome.
Now that I'm on an actual computer, I can see that it's the Vortex. I've been thinking about getting one, because I keep hearing great things about them. I actually really like Strike Industries and had no idea they made AK stuff. They are one of the few companies that really puts a lot of thought into form as well as function. Polish manufacturing in general is very nice. The attention to detail is really noticeable in even their small parts.

I would say what you experienced with your selector was hammer follow. I am actually trouble shooting a similar issue with my Tantal. It absolutely should not be able to do that ever. I didn't want to butcher my Tantal fcg, so I used another I had laying around and I've had issue with the disconnector hitting the selector bar, so I would say it's likely you are having a similar problem, but that it would be catching your disconnector. Definitely get some photos. It could be as simple as you need to file a little off the back of the disconnector to make sure it clears. What kind of retaining device is in there for the pins? I'm using the original plate, but I'm also having a problem that I'm not using the Tantal hammer spring and the spring leg slips under the plate and won't let the trigger move so the hammer hits the sear hook and stops the bolt carrier from moving.
 

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What threw me off is the wording "milspec".


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You might want to look into your local laws about raffling off your rifle..because technically that is gambling, a guy around here got in some trouble when he tried to raffle off his truck at a car show..lions club, ducks unlimited, boy scouts, and other benefit raffles get away with it because the proceeds are donated. You are donating SOME of it and pocketing the rest, check into it, would hate to see you get into trouble over 1200 bucks...
 
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You might want to look into your local laws about raffling off your rifle..because technically that is gambling, a guy around here got in some trouble when he tried to raffle off his truck at a car show..lions club, ducks unlimited, boy scouts, and other benefit raffles get away with it because the proceeds are donated. You are donating SOME of it and pocketing the rest, check into it, would hate to see you get into trouble over 1200 bucks...
Yeah, that is true. I've seen people skirt that law by making it an essay contest with a $20 entry fee. Whoever writes the best essay, wins the rifle..lol
 

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1. Post GOOD, CLEAR pics, with additional closeups of all the Russian parts. fuzzy cellphone pictures of the gun on your couch or against the wall with bad lighting make it look like just any other AK. Also, posting a sentence about a gun with no pics as the first sales post is no good. You need all the info and good pics in the first post.

2. List what Russian parts went into the build. Just telling me "it has lots of authentic Russian parts" with no details tells me nothing. Justify the cost that went into the gun.

2a. Be clear what accessories are included too. I can't tell at all from your pics/post.

2b. don't include that trash top cover with a pictianny rail bolted to it in the pics or with the gun- that is a low end garbage accessory and it takes a lot of the quality out of the claim of a quality build.

3. Be realistic about what it is worth- look at what other guns are going for that are similar. Arsenal 106's go for under $1,000 right now brand new out of the box and are close to a Russian gun save for the use of the 4.5mm stock instead of 5.5mm. The real killer on your value is that it is a non-dimpled Saiga, it just wasn't the right base gun to dump the money into for the build. Sorry man. :(

Please don't take offense, but unless all the parts are from the same type of Russian AK for the proper caliber, and built on a visually and feature correct base gun,it is simply a non-dimpled saiga in a non russian caliber (i.e. not 5.45 or 7.62 caliber) with a mix of Russian parts on it and is to most people, a parts gun.

Also, I have been here since the forum started, and Trident Arms is not a builder I have ever heard of, nor are they one of the well known builders in the industry. If it was built by Inrange, Rifle Dynamics, etc then you have a claim to fame.

The best example I can make, and once again, please take this as constructive criticism, I am not trying to offend, is that you took a repro 66 mustang frame, threw some parts on it that were from the late 60's mustang, and say that it is now an authentic 1968 Shelby GT 350. But the guys here are Mustang collectors, and can tell that isn't the case. Also, like a classic car, you rarely get back out of it what you have put in money wise, unless it was rebuilt by a very well known builder, or you did all the labor yourself.

I understand that you may have $1800 into the gun, but I don't think you are going to get that back out of the gun.


Also, I want to reiterate, I am NOT trying to be mean, cruel, etc., but give a realistic appraisal of what I see and what could be done to improve the chances of a sale and the final selling price.
 

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Dont, get me wrong its a nice rifle.The price tag is really stepp though, especially with the iz132Ls from RWC for $599-699
 

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Waaaaaaayyy too much IMO.

I never follow the 556 AK market but I cant imagine anything special going on to warrant very high prices.

If its an exceptional build then you need to provide a bunch of closeups of the work.

Otherwise spend time doing some research so you'll have a better idea of the AK market pricing.

Good luck

Harv
So follow the 556 AK market in 2021
 
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