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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I had my first experience with gunkote today. I painted just an NDS-3 receiver w/ Front + rear Trunnions and the trigger guard riveted on. I roughed it up with some emery cloth all the way around, and I degreased it with brake cleaner followed by TCE.

After that, I kphosed it with an airbrush, let that dry for a few hours, then preheated the receiver to about 130F.

I sprayed it with AK black, and baked it for an hour and 10 minutes at 330F.

It came out pretty good as far as the coverage and adhesion, the problem is, its really glossy, I mean REALLY glossy, like more than maadi or hungarian gloss.

I can post some pics tomorrow, but was the NDS receiver too smooth? Did I spray it too thick?

Is sandblasting just necessary to get a rough enough surface so it doesnt get a glossy sheen?

Is there any way I can fix this? I have some Gunkote 1600PTFE in flat black which is supposed to be more of a satin, if I spray this over the gunkote that is on there, will that make it more glossy like duracoat gets, or will it be more flat because of the flatter shade.

Please help!
 

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Sounds like you did everything right.

I have a Tantal that after blasting with Alu/ox media and parkerizing, was just finished in AK-Black and it is very shiny too and I like it. :grin:

My Tantal folder buttstock is in 1600 and it is much more satin. I have a little work left with the sling mount on the folders base(still in parkerize) then the 1600 buttstock and the parked base will be top coated with the AK-Black to match. I checked the two finished against my Tantal steel mags and the AK-Black's glossy finish matches the mags that are in the best condition. This gloss also seems to be close to the Polish factory images of the Tantal. The gloss almost looks similar to a very dark bluing.

Did you try putting oil on the glossy finish, I bet it beads up, mine does. Like a fine wax job for an AK. :lol:

I have an AMD-65 prepping next in line for AK-Black. Then a bunch of Romanian variants.
 

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Where do you get AK Black? I buy direct from KG and don't see the color listed anywhere on their site.

Branodn
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You have to call them to get the AK black. I will post some photos today of how the finish turned out. I guess I will spray it with some Flat 1600 PTFE when I get home and see how it goes :D

-Ryan
 

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The ak black is nice but it is a bitch to get the right amount of gloss out of it. Normally I preheat and do real thin light coats allowing a 10-15 dry time between coats while still over the heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
StreetTrends said:
The ak black is nice but it is a bitch to get the right amount of gloss out of it. Normally I preheat and do real thin light coats allowing a 10-15 dry time between coats while still over the heater.
I thought that is probably what I did wrong, I used to do a little bit of custom paint on sheet metal using duplicolor auto paint and the more it built up the glossier it became. Is the 1600PTFE in flat just going to make it more glossy or will it take it down a notch or two?

If not I am left with sandblasting this and redoing it because the other parts will never match since they are parked.

-Ryan
 

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Dont worry .... The 1600 series will make it more of a matte finish . Just spray over the top and make sure to get good coverage. Thin coats is the key . Its hard to get gunkote right the first time you use it. I have used it for 10 years and every now and then I still get something I was not expecting . Variables include temp , humiditity , type of spray gun, compressor used , if parts are pre-heated or not, Kphoz or parkerizing , how long baked , temp. baked at , water in spray hose or not, Gunkote left outside of oven for 1/2 hour before baking at 325 or placed back in oven right after spraying , how well was the bottle shaked before spraying ,Is your oven the "Convection" type, how close to item you spray ETC,ETC ETC. You will just have to learn your own system as you go along and make notes. All do it yourself finishes are this way but gunkote is the most durable from what I have found . And trust me as I have tried them all and have wasted alot of $$$$ on most of them . Good luck.
 

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I find that GunKote is too shiney in any case. I order the satin and the flat. For a Romy I use about 75% to *5% flat to sartin. For Polish, Bulgarian Hungarian I use the opposite at about 75% satin and 25% flat. Works for me. You are supposed to spray thin. Too thivk and it does get even glossier I think.

Recent GK Hungarian folder



 

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One addition to Jerod's comment....

In the 1600 series, 1600F is a matte. 1600S (semigloss) is a GLOSS finish. I would strongly recommend 1600F unless you are doing a Hungarian...
 

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Think part of the problem is that you didn't blast it with aluminum oxide or sand. This gives you a rougher surface which won't finish as high gloss and it gives you better adhesion in the long run as well. They don't recommend bead blast as they say it cuts adhesion as well.
 

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AK Black is a glossy black finish, like on Bulgarians and Russians. The GK satin Black does better for a more matte finish.
 

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I am sorry Catalystx , Trotsky is 100% correct ! Only use the 1600F matte finish to cover the high gloss . High gloss over High gloss = HIGHER THICKER GLOSS ! :mrgreen:

"Resting " is also correct , without blasting the receiver with any type of abrassive media before applying kphoz, parkerizing and then gunkote will produce a glossy finish fast . If you dont blast to create a tooth or pores for the parkerizing, kphoz or gunkote to adhere to its like slopping rattle can spray paint on a piece of sheetmetal . Gloss will build fast and not be the least durable. All of the work thats needed to produce a nice finish is in the "Prep" of the items . You missed a huge step by not blasting. Good Luck !
 

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Couldn't you just rub it down LIGHTLY with some 0000 steel wool to knock the shine off of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
JinxxxOnU said:
Couldn't you just rub it down LIGHTLY with some 0000 steel wool to knock the shine off of it?
It was damn near a mirror :D I sprayed and baked it with 1600F, it matches the original finish on the Romy Parts perfectly so I am leaving it as-is since its most correct.

GK says metal surfaces need only to be solvent cleaned as long as they are uncontaminated and in the white, so we shall see if durability is an issue since it wasnt blasted.
 

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CatalystX said:
GK says metal surfaces need only to be solvent cleaned as long as they are uncontaminated and in the white, so we shall see if durability is an issue since it wasnt blasted.
Not true. The 1600 line has more detailed instructions.

APPLICATION Pretreatment:

Alloy Steel: Stainless Steel: Sandblast (all sandblasting should be done using aluminum oxide 120 mesh at 50 to 70 pounds of pressure.) Sandblast and phosphate or sandblast only...
Gun Kotes website for reference.
https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?_a ... oductId=18
 

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Think of blasting a surface and turing it into a "Sponge" to soak up what ever finish you apply over it. If you dont blast that surface and leave it the way it is , it will not soak up the finish and be alot less durable . To think you can just spray over a unblasted finish and have it be durable is just nutty . :roflmao:
 

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preheat your parts to 300 degrees not 100, use high volume adjustments on your air brush, spray from 8-10 inches back
 
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