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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a Mitchel High Standard 12 guage 9115



Went to go to the range, and no dice, wouldn't fire. Firing pin wouldn't even dent the primer. Tried to take it apart but there is no take down guides I can find, let alone anything else on the internet about this piece of garbage... apparently it was made in CA.

It was a FTF transfer so I'm pretty much out of luck unless I see this old man again at the gun show. He claimed it was never fired, yet upon further inspection it showed carbon in the barell, probably a sign that he broke it after the first couple rounds and sold it to some idiot..:mad:

Thoughts? IDK what to do with my paperweight, besides put it back together and maybe sell it for 50$...
 

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Describe it as is on gunbroker with a penny reserve and sell it if you want to get rid of it. Free market will dictate what it is worthh and no one will get screwed unknowingly...
 

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They were made in the Phillipines. Worth about 200, steves pages has a pdf of the original owners guide. I can't figure out how to link a pdf though.

I would pay 50 for that one after Christmas if you don't want it.
 

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Unfortunately, that's the risk one takes when buying from an unknown individual.

I would take it to a 'smith and see how much it would cost to fix. It could be inexpensive, otherwise as recommended put it up for sale on Gunbroker with an honest description of its condition/issues.
 

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Keep checking online, there has to be takedown instructions somewhere. Maybe something on youtube. Even since you are not the original purchaser, contact the manufacturer, there may be a warranty.
 

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Obviously some lack ethics, glad to see you are not one of them.
Defiantly. I hope you can get this fixed. It almost sounds like a broken firing pin.
 

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Honesty is the best policy, even good for the seller in later years. about 40 some years ago I sold an M-1 garand that was a re-weld and it functioned but not always, I sold it as a "good" weapon and screwed someone, I still feel bad about it to this day. I would never do that again and don't recommend it., I have made up for by making good low price deals since then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Honesty is the best policy, even good for the seller in later years. about 40 some years ago I sold an M-1 garand that was a re-weld and it functioned but not always, I sold it as a "good" weapon and screwed someone, I still feel bad about it to this day. I would never do that again and don't recommend it., I have made up for by making good low price deals since then.
Thank you all for the kind responses, I haven't posted here in awhile and almost thought the forum was dying out!

I will try the take down guide as mentioned, I got as much of it as I could apart with the pdf manual, but I need a legit takedown.

using this guide:


The action won't come out, it's rock solid in there... I got the pin out but the firing mechanism is still stuck in there...

edit:

Got the gun apart, now I need to get the bolt apart, I can clearly see the firing pin doesn't want to go outside of the bolt face now.. easy takedown this thing was just glued in! thanks AKF you guys have and always will rock!
 

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I don't think a smith would charge too much.
I bought a sar 1 at a gun show a couple years ago, should have figured something was wrong with all the gun grease on the rails. I cleaned it real good and took it to the range, it wouldn't cycle every other round. I tried a new recoil spring and that's all it needed to fix it. I laugh to myself about the seller.
 

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It could have been well lubed and then sat muzzle up for long enough for some of the lube to enter the firing pin and gum up the works. I've seen that happen before and all it takes is a good cleaning to fix.
You might try some compressed air right in the firing pin channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Going to make some Ed's Red and clean the snot out of it, will post future updates.

So I have cleaned it pretty well, it seems the firing pin isn't long enough, I can push it in and out of the bolt freely but it needs to get pushed farther into the bolt for the firing pin to protrude enough..Is the end where the hammer strikes supposed to be all beveled out?
 

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Going to make some Ed's Red and clean the snot out of it, will post future updates.

So I have cleaned it pretty well, it seems the firing pin isn't long enough, I can push it in and out of the bolt freely but it needs to get pushed farther into the bolt for the firing pin to protrude enough..Is the end where the hammer strikes supposed to be all beveled out?
Pics?
 

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How much firing pin protrusion is there? When you say "beveled out", does it look like the end was machined that way, or did the hammer deform it due to improper heat treating?
 

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Maybe a redundant comment, but is this a free float pin or is there a spring which should be there that would provide neded force to allow the pin to extend out when the trigger is pulled? Not familiar with this gun.

I did find this infor on the bolt disassembly. HTH - Marco
 
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