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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

I am a newish 07/02 and just put together my first AKM which I made into a machinegun. It is a Romanian Md. 63 kit I bought a thousand years ago and is built on a Childers 80 percent receiver. I believe the barrel is Polish but I don't remember.

Anyway the rifle went together nicely or at least nicely for my first build. I am fairly confident with shooting AKs but all my rifles were built by Turbothis way back in the day so building one was pretty nerve-racking. My experience and business is mostly with AR patterns (Yeah yeah) I found the FCG to be a "fun" ordeal after only having experience with semi-auto FCG installs.

So I took it to the range and I have a few questions for the experienced guys. The rifle shot nicely but I noticed it stove-piped a few times in the first 10 rounds in semi-auto. It also seemed to be pretty anemic on spent case ejection; only tossing them a few feet unlike the usual AK experience. I switched to FA and it cycled everything fine on the first mag but the cycle rate seemed really low at first. I am only used to M4 clones so this could just be me. As I went through mags it seemed to get faster with the cyclic rate and toss casings much farther. I had one of the range officers fire the last mag and I observed the ejection pattern and cyclic rate. My question is there a break in with these rifles? I was just shooting Wolf FMJs so nothing special. I was being careful to inspect spent casings and saw nothing remiss. I shot 120 rounds with a combination or semi-auto and FA with no issues other than described.

Thanks for any advice.

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Hmmm. A new gun being test fired for the first time... If it went together correctly, it should have no issues, other than sighting it in, adjusting & finally pinning the front sight. I don't think there is a "wear in period" like there may be needed on an HK type receiver. It might be, with your build, dunno. I never built a FA. The rate reducer/hammer retarder installed? Should reduce the rate as designed... Dumb question, did you lube it up real good? These things will run even if dry but some grease always helps. Oil eventually runs downhill, but grease stays put.

Weak ejection, eh? How big is the gashole in the barrel? Did you drill it, or did it come pre-drilled? I think standard is .125"? Some guys who drill their own go with smaller diameter holes just to make for milder recoil. Perhaps the gashole is partially plugged or maybe partially covered by the gas block? Does the action stroke smoothely? Rails bind somehow? Maybe something rubbing the piston? Maybe piston rubbing the RSB? Or, perhaps the ejector is a bit too short, that can cause stove piping. On the other hand, if it is functioning, you're golden! Lots of things can hinder the action, making it fail to feed, fail to extract, fail to eject, fail to cycle... These above are just what came to mind at the moment. Fun topic. Internet diagnosing of gun problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was lubed up pretty well with G96 as I use it for ARs. I drilled the gas port with a .1285 bit it looks lined up nicely with the bore scope. The action feels very smooth and light. I filed the ejector with a jewelers file until the bolt carrier would fall closed with gravity without dragging. I do have the rate reducer installed. It just felt slow but the only thing I have to compare it against are M4 clones so that may just be me. The reason I thought it may need a wear in is that the cyclic rate and case ejection got faster and farther as I put rounds through it to the point where it felt more normal.
 

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Any new build will clearance itself. Sometimes the rails just need to be run in, sometimes it’s the bolt seating itself in the trunnion. It’s especially common if you are using all new components. When shooting semi it doesn’t seem to show itself but on full auto it may seem a bit anemic. When I do the headspace I always act like it is a precision rifle and lap the bolt to the lugs. They last thing you want is set the headspace with a bunch of park or paint on both surfaces that will wear off after a few rounds.

And for sure don’t expect the cyclic rate to be like an M4. Even with a suppressor it won’t cycle like a AR platform rifle. I sometimes leave the rate reducer out but it will make the muzzle climb more noticeable. The engineers were right to put it in, the shot placement is much better slowing it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't think to lap the bolt to the lugs. I checked the amount of park that was on them which was minimal but that is an extremely helpful tip that I will definitely use in future builds thank you. I was pretty happy with it. Thought it was going to be a lot less controllable. Now I just have to figure out how to do range rentals since they expressed interest.
 

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Be careful with range rentals. They can be good sources of income but factor in barrel life. Everyone wants to do mag dumps. Also never use your own mags or optics, they WILL go missing. These guys paying that kind of money want to get the most bang for the buck (pardon the pun). They won’t treat your weapons well.

Also use locking type push pins (HK MR556) that are a pain in the butt to get out or better yet a front screw. Lowers can disappear too. One guy with a fake DL can cause you a lot of problems with BATF when your registered lower vanishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Roger that. I have to start a checklist with all this info. I appreciate the advice.
 
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