I have a question that I have asked before and gotten slightly different answers. The axis points are stamped onto the blank. Why use a jig? A caliper could confirm drawing measurements. Thanks.This... I've never used a jig, only measurements published by Forbus (based on original Russian drawings I think). If you're a detail-oriented metal shop guy, man card not withstanding, you should be able to do this without a jig. I've seen so many threads about how far off the holes are after using brand X whatever jig. Besides, jigs are expensive.
Excellent advice. Thank you!A jig simply makes it easier for most people. I wanted a Forbus or Recreator jig but none have been available for a long time so I broke out a machinists rule and laid everything out. Once you have your points you can lay a piece of scrap sheet metal that has the appropriate hole in it (5mm or 7mm) over them and scribe a circle around the points. I like to step-drill: start small and increase drill bit size until you are close. The scribed circle only tells you if your drill bits are wandering. In the end you can either use the correct size reamer or do some careful dremel work with a small carbide bit. I've done both and it has never failed me. Note: the X and Y stamps in the receiver are not in there to denote location; they are more for reinforcement of the holes (it's a sheet metal thing). This method saves $ in tooling also.