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Yep, you're golden. This covers the whole rear end.

No need to cut a NDS1KP...... cuts are already there for the side folder stock, including the hole for the retainer clip to keep the stock folded.
 

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That looks just like the pieces set I got from a member here a while back. It is complete.

I built mine using a Romy kit on an NDS-1KP too. Everything fit perfectly! Those Bulgy SF's are very nicely made. They latch up good and tight too.

All you have to do is grind or mill a flat area under the front trunnion for the latch to go there. The way the Romy trunnion is shaped under there you'd be drilling the hole for the retainer shaft right in the step in the trunnion. I built mine up with a welder forwards of the step and milled it flat and cleaned it up with a file. Piece of cake then to drill the hole for the retainer pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sidecar-can you post some pics of your mod?how does that front latch go together?i know i don't have to cut a nds1kp,i was talking about having to cut a nds1 so icould do an underfolder.
 

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It's built now. Too late for pics in there.

I'd be happy to weld up, anneal and then mill and clean up your trunnion bottom for you if you cover return postage. It's just 20 minutes work. You would then test fit the trunnion into the receiver and mark and drill the hole for the pin then before ever putting the barrel back in. PM me if interested.

Someone else here posted pics of doing that trunnion mod some time back. That is how I got the info to do mine. If you weld and have a mill it's a piece of cake. You're just extending the step there forwards 1/3".

To pattern the rear for the SF it's just like doing an UF. Take a tape rubbing off the trunnion, stick that in place and drill some holes in the centers of the large holes well undersized. Then put the trunnion in place carefully and clamp it in place. Drill out the long rivet hole and bolt it up temporarily. reove the clamp. Then you can find and drill the other rivet holes and use a dremel and files to enlargen the bigger holes in the receiver to match the trunnion. The stuff at the rear angle can be filed down cleanly. I did a UF on a flat this way. A couple hours work. No reason you can't do a SF that way.

The spring in the rear catch is a bear to put in. I made a tool from thick sheet steel with a half circle divot at the front to allow me to feed that spring onto the shaft of the catch a bit at a time.

On the front latch I finally did it right on the third try. :roll:
Put the spring in there with it's tail aft as it needs to be and hold it with needle nose pliers. Get the hook portion into the hole area on the side of the receiver so you can then insert the catch from the outside and then use the pliers to gently pull on the spring / latch together until you can get the pin in the hole to capture them. This will cock the catch against the hole stopping it and tensioning the spring as you pull forwards. Of course as you release the pliers after getting the pin through the latch and spring the spring & latch will cock to one side becasue the pin isn't set into the trunnion hole. Now you use a flat tip screwdriver to push that into position so you can push the pin at least partway into the hole. May need a tap from a small ballpeen hammer to push the pin in as finger pressure won't be enough. Almost done. Using a tiny flat tip driver you pull the spring wire away from the pin a bit so you can finish pushing the pin in all the way and then release the spring so it sets into the groove on the pin retaining it in place. Pressing the wire into that groove with the flat tip driver and a few tippy taps from a small hammer will make sure it's set in the groove. Done.
Use both hands. Hold the stock with your knees while you sit in a chair and hold a flashlight in your teeth and you're good to go.
It was that difficult fo rme. But it's not impossible. I hope that helps you visualize it.
 

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I may have done it "wrong", but the last 2 side folder latch pin holes were machined in place, (trunion riveted in).

My latches sit parallel to the top rails, with no "twist" like you occasionally see on some builds.

I plunge milled for the pin head shoulder, changed end mills & plunged .100" into the trunion. Worked perfectly. Did not hit the shoulder on a Bulgarian 74 trunion or on a Saiga 7.62.
 

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Man! You did it more carefully than I did. I drilled the hole with no barrel in place since the trunnion isn't very thick there. I didn't want to chance going too bar and getting the barrel. I didn't think to use my mill. Just used my drill press.
It did come out nice and square though. I'm very happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the info guys.now i just need to decide what i'm going to do.still up in the air over whether i want do so an under or side folder.i want to end up with a fixed ,underfolder and sidefolder stock ak.i have a romy g on a nds3 with a romy button sidefolder so far.i gotta pay off the kit b4 i start hacking it up!
 
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