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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a couple questions on a first build I'm working on. I bought a used Polish parts kit, less receiver and barrel, from the Sportsmans guide website, an 80% receiver from Henderson Defense, and a phosphate finish barrel from Arms of America.

1) Would I need to sand/remove the phosphate finish from the barrel areas that press into the front trunnion, the front sight block, the gas port and the front sight before installing these parts?

2) The barrel does not have the pin areas cut/drilled; would a drill bit work in cutting these? I'm worried about the bit walking or being moved over as I'd start drilling on a rounded surface. Any suggestions on how to drill these out.

3) I've got the rivets for the build, any suggestions on where to start first and in what order? I'm thinking in this order: center support first, then trigger guard, then front trunnion, then rear trunnion; how do you go about with your build?

4) Options for anti-seize compound for the barrel and other parts. I don't have anything like this locally and would have to order through the mail or air freight; would low-temp grease work or is anti-seize compound better?

I'll probably have more questions as I continue this build. Thanks in advance.
 

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I've got a couple questions on a first build I'm working on. I bought a used Polish parts kit, less receiver and barrel, from the Sportsmans guide website, an 80% receiver from Henderson Defense, and a phosphate finish barrel from Arms of America.

1) Would I need to sand/remove the phosphate finish from the barrel areas that press into the front trunnion, the front sight block, the gas port and the front sight before installing these parts?

you can use emery paper in 120 grit etc., to shoeshine the journals. But try the parts first for size.

2) The barrel does not have the pin areas cut/drilled; would a drill bit work in cutting these? I'm worried about the bit walking or being moved over as I'd start drilling on a rounded surface. Any suggestions on how to drill these out.

drill bits work but ideally you need undersized bit ad then ream to finish. Stabilizing the work to the cutting tool is the important part. A drill press vice etc. The bit will not wander much the components are hard and the barrel is soft.

3) I've got the rivets for the build, any suggestions on where to start first and in what order? I'm thinking in this order: center support first, then trigger guard, then front trunnion, then rear trunnion; how do you go about with your build?

there are build "how to" in the stickies above and Google, U-Tube and the www have thousands of pages on AK builds.

4) Options for anti-seize compound for the barrel and other parts. I don't have anything like this locally and would have to order through the mail or air freight; would low-temp grease work or is anti-seize compound better?

oil of some kind will work as a substitute. The more important factor is making sure the journal OD and component ID are within a interference fit range of .001' +/-., not overly tight or loose. This takes a measuring and a "feel" when using a press. There is considerable deviation in component and barrel journal sizes. They are not constant and often require "fitting"., by lathe or shoeshining with emery paper or knurling if undersized etc

I'll probably have more questions as I continue this build. Thanks in advance.
Have fun with it and study the www info first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info AKBLUE.. I'm definitely looking into AK builds where ever I can find it. As this is my first build I sure don't want to screw anything up as these parts don't come cheap. I would rather learn from other people's mistakes, but I know I'll probably make some of my own too.

Another question: does anyone know why these stamped receivers have the "X" and "Y" stamped on the axis pin areas, and only on one side??? Not directly related to my build but I was just wondering.
 

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I've use parked barrels and just pressed on all the parts. The most important thing you can do is measure everything to make sure it will fit before pressing. I have made this mistake before and it's not pretty.

For drilling the cross pins, any HSS bit or better will work. I would highly recommend a drill press on this if you don't want to destroy and egg out the holes on the barrel components. AK-builder sells nice machine bits for this purpose. They are a good investment IMO. Also lots of cutting fluid while doing this makes it way easier. Magic tap is good and even WD-40 will work.

There are a lot of tutorials that run through the rivet installation. I do my front, the rear trunnion, and center support after so I can fit it if need be.

I use moly grease for anti-seize. I have a huge can that will last until the end of time. You can get it at Lowe's/Home depot or an auto parts store.

Other good info sources:
Arizona Response Systems, LLC. Notes. AK.

http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK/docs/construction/construction.htm

How to build an AK 47
 

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The various dimples and ribs on the top cover, ejector rail and top receiver rail serve the dual purpose of strengthening the stamped sheet metal and also in the case of the top rail it simulates or creates the thickness of the original milled receivers that the rifles were produced with for the first 10-12 years of AK production.
It allowed for parts fitment and interchangeability of the axis pins and bolt carrier etc..
The ribbed top cover adds strength to a lighter, thinner cover vs the milled cover that was .015" thicker IIRC. The side dimples on the receiver likewise add durability.
 

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Another question: does anyone know why these stamped receivers have the "X" and "Y" stamped on the axis pin areas, and only on one side???
Purely cosmetic. It's so they'll look more like the originals that had the working happy switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the good info on the X's and Y's guys.. Okay, got the majority tool needed to build in; I'm almost done with the receiver, still need to drill the safety lever cutout and grind the top rails; waiting for bits for the drilling and more grinding tips right now. One question I have is heat treating - should I heat treat the axis pin holes before any parts are installed? or is it better to heat treat after the center rivet and front/rear trunnions are installed so as to avoid warping the receiver? Any thoughts on this? Also, what are people's preference for quenching, oil or water/salt/soap? Would used oil be advisable if I went that route, or would new oil be better? I've heard basic 20w is good, how about multi-vis like 5w-30 or 10w-40? I'm thinking that using water is faster since you can clean/dry the parts easier after each quenching vs using oil. Do I also need to heat treat the lower rail inside the receiver where the hammer pin goes through, or would just the outside of the receiver be adequate?
 
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