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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im not actually sure this is where to post but im giving this a shot. i have an a draco 11in pistol and im getting some FTF and FTE. i have tested many mags and as far as im aware my extractor and ejector are fine. during hand cycling i cant get it to duplicate my results. im thinking that i just have low pressure ammo ( im using tulammo exclusively seeing as i cant find anything other then stupid over priced brass ) but i cant be for sure. the ammo will not extract out of the chamber and some times if it does it gets hung up in the dust cover along the left hand side of the recoil spring. i have another ak and have compared wear on the ejector and extractor along with rails and chamber and they both look basically identical and my other ak acts just fine with all of my mags and any ammo i run threw it. i have shot maybe a few hundred rounds threw it and from close inspection i noticed SOME como in the bolt just behind the extractor. NOTE i have talked to many ak owners and they have all told me that the dracos have stupid new guns and have some break in period
sorry for the longish post but its just annoying and i would love this stupid thing to work i have been reading everywhere and cant find the same thing anywhere thanks for the help
 

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well, if you think ammo might be the culprit you should order some mil-spec wolf online and give it a shot. i have shot plenty of Tula and so far i have not seen weak cycling being an issue. on other hand though it was on full size Aks not chopped down ones.

draco being short barreled and drawing gas so close to the muzzle COULD mean that gas system does not get enough gas. if you say that you can not replicate that manually it sort of starting to make sense.

you can try and get a muzzle booster on the end of that barrel. one of the newer ak-104 ones. ak-104 is basically same config exactly as the draco and they did design it with the booster in mind.

another thing to consider is the gas-port issues. it is usually responsible for anemic cycling of the gun. and draco being a century product i would not put it past them to screw this up.
although disclaimer in order, i'm not super familiar with dracos. Never owned/shot one. i like my AKs with a stock.

i also do not believe 'break-in' is responsible for this. non of my AKs needed a break-in. and i built a few. properly built AK has enough люфт built in by design to not require a break-in. fucked up and twisted or poorly bent receivers receivers are usually subject to 'break-in' period. since dracos are built on factory romy receivers i do not think that should be the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
see thats what i thought could be the case but i checked the gas port and there is a perfectly round and not oblong shaped hole thats about a few mm in diameter if need be ill try and take a pictures of every thing and try to give a better idea idk its really weird

on a side note i was thinking more about this last night and the problem usually accrues when i have run a few hundred rounds threw it but i just figured its not a direct gas gun so it would effect feeding like that idk im going to the range tomorrow and ill try and try and look a little more into it ill post results if anything happens
 

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I would give the chamber a good scrubbing with powder solvent before going back out...
 

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Yes, check that the gas port hole is clear. Also, remove the recoil assembly and move the carrier so the extractor is in the bolt right where it would make contact with the shell. Then try to push the carrier side to side, if there is a lot of aide to side play at that point use a vise to squeeze the receiver a little closer together. This happens to some guns in the building process and causes the extractor to not make full contact.
 

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Put some lithium grease on the active parts and run at least 200-300 rounds through it.

My experience would be break in period as the individual said.
 

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Although it isn't 7.63x39, I refuse to use Tula since finding that their .223/5.56x45 is so lightly loaded that when it does extract, you can catch the extracted shell casing and not burn your hand. In fact it is cold to the touch making me wonder how it had enough power to get the bullet out of the barrel. I have had failure to extract in my otherwise very reliable SAR-3 and Norinco 84S-1.

If the parts in your firearm look ok, try different ammo.
 

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Although it isn't 7.63x39, I refuse to use Tula since finding that their .223/5.56x45 is so lightly loaded that when it does extract, you can catch the extracted shell casing and not burn your hand. In fact it is cold to the touch making me wonder how it had enough power to get the bullet out of the barrel. I have had failure to extract in my otherwise very reliable SAR-3 and Norinco 84S-1.

If the parts in your firearm look ok, try different ammo.
Also post #4, #5, and #6. I also have had problems with Tula with the worst two being squib loads. Thankfully the bullet was barely in the lands and I was able to use the cleaning rod to punch both out. Won't use Tula ever again even if it's free. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
as far as the ammo being light loads i have noticed some being light ( maybe a few out of a hundred ) but even the full power loads dont extract this doesnt happen all the time like ive scene in some low gas videos ( meaning the gas port or the gas block it self ) and i tried to move to the bolt and it was nearly rock solid ( my other ak had more play and its ejects just fine ) it maybe the ammo i was thinking that i would try 20 rounds of winchester ( even though iv never had luck with it in in my other guns ) or it maybe hanging up on my hammer ill run it threw a check list tomorrow at the range and post the results or any changes

thanks for posting ideas guys its really helping my narrow down the problem and hopefully to a fix in the near future
 

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What kind of brake are you using ? Those four piece, i think of them as dtk bulgarian, may help. The design of the brake adds more pressure to the gas system and can help cycling issues on sbr's and pistols. Its cone shape is good for flash hiding and getting the more of the sound blast out in front of you as well. circle10ak has two, usa and bulgarian versions:

http://www.circle10ak.com/muzzledevices.shtml
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nothing actually its just a slant break or a thread cover but i was looking at getting a booster i cant remember witch one it is though
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok so i went to the range today and i think i figured our the problem i think i have a week extractor spring i had 32 miss fires out of the 125 rounds 13161259_10153848696201284_1778199332_o.jpg 13169939_10153848696251284_123773918_o.jpg 13170526_10153848696681284_547024991_o.jpg 13184811_10153848697751284_1526957155_o.jpg 13148173_10153848696616284_373856215_o.jpg ( the last picture the case wasnt a stove pipe the case was up under the dust cover lodged at a weird angle but it couldnt upload the pictue ) along with the problems i had the ejection was week i mean like a foot or two to my right hand side i did have some weaker loads ( thats how i noticed the ejection falling short ) but the ejection distance dident change even with the full power loads lemme know what u guys think
 

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ok so i went to the range today and i think i figured our the problem i think i have a week extractor spring i had 32 miss fires out of the 125 rounds View attachment 44859 View attachment 44860 View attachment 44861 View attachment 44862 View attachment 44863 ( the last picture the case wasnt a stove pipe the case was up under the dust cover lodged at a weird angle but it couldnt upload the pictue ) along with the problems i had the ejection was week i mean like a foot or two to my right hand side i did have some weaker loads ( thats how i noticed the ejection falling short ) but the ejection distance dident change even with the full power loads lemme know what u guys think
Not impossible bad extractor spring, but it would typically break into pieces vs just being weak. Easy enough to check, knock the firing pin retaining pin out, then extractor retaining pin. Extractor retaining pin kind of orients on firing pin retaining pin, that's why firing pin retaining pin needs to come out first, and go in last. See what the pieces look like. My guess without seeing it, is weak gas system, ak's are typically over gased for reliability, chucking brass a mile. Not heavily into ak pistols, but from what Ive read I think sbr's and pistols suffer from under gas with short barrels. That's where that brake may help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that was my next step was to buy a punch set and check the spring since its a cheap fix and the only boosters i can find are like a hundred plus but ive had it for a while now and the problem just started happening a few range trips ago thats the main reason i dont think it is a gas issue but at this moment spring and gas are honestly my two options since everything else i have checked into ant the case after i check the spring i will let u guys know
 

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that was my next step was to buy a punch set and check the spring since its a cheap fix and the only boosters i can find are like a hundred plus but ive had it for a while now and the problem just started happening a few range trips ago thats the main reason i dont think it is a gas issue but at this moment spring and gas are honestly my two options since everything else i have checked into ant the case after i check the spring i will let u guys know
I see. Maybe check the port from gas block into barrel. You the straw on a spray oil can, wd-40 or something. Make sure its not carboned up or free from debris.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hmm ill try that i have some rem oil ill soak it down well tonight and i have a carbon pick some where ill try and free the port as much as possible and again before i go to the range next
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i pulled my bolt apart and inspected the ejector spring and idk if its normal but it was slightly belt not broken or anything just had a slight curve i was thinking about striping down my other aks bolt and swap springs ( or can i just swap bolts ??? ) i was supposed to go to the range today but next range trip ill buy some winchester and see if i still have the same problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i would defiantly say it was under gassed if the problem was there from the beginning but it has just recently started showing up more and more
 

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No swapping of bolts! The head space was set using the bolt that it came with, using another could create a very unsafe condition that would cause your rifle to blow up.
 
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