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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
On a few of my AK's, I had always wanted to change-out the sight leaf. I have one of the Century Romanian AES-10B's that had come with a regular sight instead of the RPK design, plus a few Saigas with the 300m civilian-type sights that needed an upgrade. I had messed around just a bit in the past with trying to change out the rear sight leaf on a couple of AK's using only a screw driver to try and press the leaf spring down, but to no avail.

Last week, I came across a link some where on this site for the Campy Sight Tool, and wound up ordering one to try from Power Custom:

Campy Sight Tool [Campy Sight] - $24.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories

I figured it was worth a try. Service was quick and accurate, and my Campy Sight Tool arrived just a few days later in a Priority Mail envelope. No instructions were included in the package, but the video at the above link made it look pretty easy. The design is basically an open-end wrench with one of the 'ears' curled inward to be more of a hook. The user presses down on the sight leaf spring with the straight 'ear' of the 'wrench' and meanwhile pushes the hooked end to catch the front end of the sight block. Then, lifting the tool up and toward the back of the rifle, the sight is freed from leaf spring tension and (in-theory) easily removed.

The first problem I encountered is that the Campy Sight Tool has a small and not particularly ergonomic handle. I'm not exactly a shrinking violet, but getting the necessary leverage to compress the leaf spring sufficiently downward to hook it on was impossible for me using only hand pressure on that small handle. So I put the tool into 8" Vice Grips for more leverage. Problem 1 solved.

The first rifle I tried it on was a 7.62x39 Saiga bought from Classic Arms in 2008 - RAA import, with a non-dimpled receiver, with only the trigger and pistol grip parts of the conversion done. If I were to have a 'beater' AK, this would be the one, but I'd still like for it to have a 1000 m sight. However, on this particular rifle, I could never hook the sight tool to the RSB and get its leaf free, Vice Grips or no. After about ten tries, I gave up and moved to other rifles.

Things went more smoothly with a .308 Saiga, and also that Romanian AES-10B. While I never got as fast as the demo video, with firm pressure on the Vice Grips and some strategic wriggling of the sight leaf itself, removal went pretty smoothly. The hooked edge of the tool grabbed the front of the RSB fine (be sure that the UHG retainer lever is positioned so as not to block the lip of the RSB), and then leverage was pretty easy from there. Once the old sight was removed, an RPK sight was easy to slide into place without using the tool.

All in all, I'm satisfied with what the Campy Sight Tool does and how it does it. It was good to switch the two sights I did last night, and I'll try that Saiga that was stubborn another night when I have more energy. Maybe something is a bit larger than spec on it, and the Campy sight tool will never hook into place, but maybe I was just being tired & stupid. I consider the Vice Grips to be a necessary extension of the tool's limited leverage, but if you have a He-Man grip, you might be able to use it successfully without them.

-otus
 

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I bought one a couple years ago. I've tried it several times with no success. The drill press method works much better. I can change out a sight leaf in a few seconds on the drill press.

Nathan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bought one a couple years ago. I've tried it several times with no success. The drill press method works much better. I can change out a sight leaf in a few seconds on the drill press.

Nathan

I don't own a drill press, so I haven't tried using one to change out the sight leaf. For those that do, it might be useful to post your technique (some combination of clamp in place and lever-down with the power off and a blunt bit in the chuck, I imagine?)

-otus
 

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I don't own a drill press, so I haven't tried using one to change out the sight leaf. For those that do, it might be useful to post your technique (some combination of clamp in place and lever-down with the power off and a blunt bit in the chuck, I imagine?)

-otus
You can either clamp it in place using a vice of your choice or just lay a stack of rags on the DP table to keep from scratching up the wood or rifle. Lift the rear sight leaf and find a bit that will fit between the front of the sight leaf and the RSB and install it upside down in the chuck and lightly tighten the chuck so as not to damage the flutes on the drill bit. Position the rifle on the DP table and work the handle on the DP which will compress the rear sight spring. If your just holding the rifle with rags covering the DP table you might be able to release it since the pressure from the DP "SHOULD" hold it in place depending on how you set it up, and grab the sight leaf and slide it out. Installation is just the reverse of removal.
 

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Works Great As Well On The M64 RPK! (My review for Brownells)

My M64 RPK from Century came with a slightly buggered rear sight leaf, so I replaced it with a N.O.S. Soviet RPK rear sight leaf. The Campy Bob Sight Tool made it quick and easy.

IMPORTANT TIP: The Gas Tube/Upper Hand Guard Assembly needs to be removed so that you have enough room for your hand to manuver the tool, and most importantly, the locking lever for the Upper Hand Guard/Gas Tube Assembly has to be free to move the attached pressure wedge that holds down on the back/top of the gas-tube, moved out of the way, so that the lower hook part of the tool can fit under the front cross member of the rear sight assembly.

The tool works brilliantly, like an old-school beer can opener before even pull tabs, which would hold under the lip/edge of the top of the can, then pivot from that hold-point and press down cutting an opening into the top of the can.

With the Campy Bob Tool positioned with the hook under the forward cross member of the rear sight, have the rear sight leaf in a vertical position, and as you engage the front tab of the LEAF SPRING that presses up on the sight from below, begin pulling up on the rear of the tool and pressing down on the top/front of the tool (like a beer-can opener in progress)allowing the sight itself to fall foward as you apply more pressure to the spring, then you'll be able to remove the old sight out the tracks to the rear, and slide the new sight forward into the tracks, hold it vertical and begin releasing pressure from the tool, allowing the leaf spring below to engage and press the sight fully home into the tops of it's holes.

Once you've done it, it all becomes so clear!
 

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Been using my Campy sight tool for a number of years. Great for changing out rear sights. (for any cyclist or mountain bikers out there, Campy is short for?).
 

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If anyone would rather keep their $35, you can easily fashion one of these from a .50 cent 3/8' open ended wrench. A little grinding and hammering.
 

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The only uses I know of are to remove and install rear sight leaves. I have yet to find a rear sight leaf I couldn't remove in a matter of seconds with this tool. Youu can see in the third picture how the tol is machined so that a tab fits in the channel on the sight leaf and the ears fit. Installing can be a little more difficult depending on how stiff the spring is, however, again, I have yet to find a rear sight leaf I can't install with this tool.

Another East German Armorers kit I am familiar with has a special set of pliers that are used to remove the sight leaf. I do not have a pair of these but will see if I can find a picture of them.

Martin
 

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Thanks Martin.:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
IMPORTANT TIP: The Gas Tube/Upper Hand Guard Assembly needs to be removed so that you have enough room for your hand to manuver the tool, and most importantly, the locking lever for the Upper Hand Guard/Gas Tube Assembly has to be free to move the attached pressure wedge that holds down on the back/top of the gas-tube, moved out of the way, so that the lower hook part of the tool can fit under the front cross member of the rear sight assembly.

The tool works brilliantly, like an old-school beer can opener before even pull tabs, which would hold under the lip/edge of the top of the can, then pivot from that hold-point and press down cutting an opening into the top of the can.

With the Campy Bob Tool positioned with the hook under the forward cross member of the rear sight, have the rear sight leaf in a vertical position, and as you engage the front tab of the LEAF SPRING that presses up on the sight from below, begin pulling up on the rear of the tool and pressing down on the top/front of the tool (like a beer-can opener in progress)allowing the sight itself to fall foward as you apply more pressure to the spring, then you'll be able to remove the old sight out the tracks to the rear, and slide the new sight forward into the tracks, hold it vertical and begin releasing pressure from the tool, allowing the leaf spring below to engage and press the sight fully home into the tops of it's holes.

Once you've done it, it all becomes so clear!
Good explanation!

-otus
 

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I must be doing something wrong here. I have some milled Arsenals I am trying to use it on. I cannot get under the RSB at all. No matter what the position of the lever.

Any pointers here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I must be doing something wrong here. I have some milled Arsenals I am trying to use it on. I cannot get under the RSB at all. No matter what the position of the lever.

Any pointers here?
It seems that some AK's have a gap under the RSB that is just too small for the Campy Sight Tool. I never could get the sight off that Saiga I mentioned in the OP, but gave up and decided that a beater AK could live with a 300m sight.

Of course now with the Russian import ban, I probably ought to just list that Saiga on GB for the 'low, low' price of Seventy Kerjillion Dollarz! But I probably will just keep it...

-otus
 

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I'm sure this gadget works great but I've always just used a padded vise, an old shop towel, and a really big flathead screwdriver. Works everytime :thumbsup:
 
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