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  1. #76
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    Only one deleted so all good. Let’s see if this one double posts.

  2. #77
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    So I measured with calipers as best I could and it looked like .9065 to me. I guess that would make it an oversized barrel, but I’m going to have a friend with build experience measure it again before I buy a barrel.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    So I measured with calipers as best I could and it looked like .9065 to me. I guess that would make it an oversized barrel, but I’m going to have a friend with build experience measure it again before I buy a barrel.
    Wait, maybe that is a standard trunnion then. I don’t know.

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  5. #79
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    Status Update:

    Trunnion was actually .904.

    $99 Standard AKM Nitrate barrel and $30 RAK 1 SA Trigger group ordered from Arms of America.
    Romanian 80% stamped receiver with proper selector marks and FCG and rivet layout guide ordered from Childers - roughly $115.
    2 Sets of rivets (because I'm sure I'll mess a few up) ordered from SuckerFreeGear.

    Most importantly, found a friend with build experience who has kindly agreed to assist me with headspacing and populating the barrel using his equipment.

    More updates to come.
    Last edited by Cincymaga; 08-24-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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  6. #80
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    Status Update:

    Nitrated barrel with gas port drilled and RAK1 trigger group arrived from AoA.

    3mm; 4mm (2x); 5mm; 5.5mm; 7mm; and 10mm drill bits + 5mm & 7mm reamer set arrived from AKbuilder

    Still waiting on Childers receiver.

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    Status Update:

    Well my buddy and I headspaced the barrel this past weekend. We went slow and got it to the point where the bolt would just barely close on a go gage, so that it closes on a live round with just a little force, and won’t even come close to closing on a no go gauge. It took a little while, but the reward was a very nice tight headspacing.

    Our first obstacle came in the form of the hand guard retainer which refused to lock in. Therefore, we did some light and careful grinding on the barrel with a file in the precut retainer slot which was on the barrel in order the widen the corner in which we could see the finish wear from where the hand guard retainer was refusing to close. After an hour of gentle work, we locked in the hand guard retainer and were able to use it as a leveling guide when pressing the trunnion. We then decided to wait until next week to drill the barrel pin as it was getting late.
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  8. #82
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    Lastly, I received my BFPU lower hand guard, as I don’t like the look of the donkey dong, however I will keep it in storage so that I have the complete kit.

    Thanks to sayhalo2mylittlefriend for the lower, I think it matches my kit pretty well.

    The hope is to drill the barrel pin and populate the barrel during our next build session.

    More updates to come next week.
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  9. #83
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    Often better to rivet the trunnion to the receiver first.
    Then proceed with populating the barrel.

    Saves pulling and repositioning the barrel to install the trunnion to the receiver. Insures a better stacking of the RSB, GB and receiver cover.

    Either way can work but..,
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  10. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
    Often better to rivet the trunnion to the receiver first.
    Then proceed with populating the barrel.

    Saves pulling and repositioning the barrel to install the trunnion to the receiver. Insures a better stacking of the RSB, GB and receiver cover.

    Either way can work but..,
    We'll probably drill the barrel pin then press the RSB, GB, & FSB, but not actually drill any pin holes until we press the barrel back out and rivet it to the trunnion so that we still have some wiggle room if anything needs to be adjusted. Still waiting on the Childers receiver. They told me they weren't back logged and I should have it in three weeks. I ordered it three weeks ago today, but I don't want to be an ass so I'll wait another week or two before I send an ETA email.

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    Status Update - Bluing Questions:

    So this past weekend, we drilled out the rear trunnion pin, checking headspace before and after and decided to go the range instead of attempting to populate the barrel as I was still waiting for my receiver.

    My receiver is set to arrive tomorrow from Childers however I now realize that the receiver is not finished and is exposed metal.

    What is the easiest way to blue the receiver for a first time builder? I just want to stabilize and protect the receiver, not concerned about getting a perfect match to the Romy kit.

    Is a cold blue the best way?

    I have access to a sand blast box, but it is not at the build site. Would it be helpful to clean with mineral spirits and sand blast, if I then have to wait a few days to blue it?

    Should I place in a ballistol soaked bag after sand blasting to prevent rust, then clean with mineral spirits again and blow dry with air compressor once at the build site right before bluing? Should I hit it with a blow torch for a few seconds prior to putting on the brownells cold blue?

    I need a step by step, I know nothing about this process. Thanks guys.

  12. #86
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    I wouldn’t use cold blue. If you do, brownells oxpho blue is decent.

    Three major cons to cold bluing are durability and corrosion resistance, and uniformity.

    Cold blue is difficult to get to blue evenly, it wears off pretty easily, and it really doesn’t offer very decent rust resistance. (Real Bluing is not very good at corrosion resistance, but cold blue is really Quite bad at this).

    I would send it off to be blued if you want it blued.


    What I would do is:

    But brownells parkerizing solution, park it, and paint it. But that may not be what your looking for.

    The parkerizing idea is cheap, reusable (I’m on the same bottle of park several years later; I just top off with water when it gets low) and quick.

    But you’d want to sandblast the receiver first. A cheap compressor and a $20 top fill sandblaster with 120 grit aluminum oxide is what I use for gun parts. Everything comes out flawlessly.


    Of course if you want it blued, then don’t parkerize it.


    There are a lot of places that will blue parts or receivers. Bluing can be somewhat expensive however.

  13. #87
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    I'm currently in the process of rust bluing some stuff for some of my kits I still have. It's definitely a bit time consuming but it seems like it's working out good now (though due to how long it takes I'm not doing every part just a few big ones), thanks to some guidance from folks here. I did get special de-ionized water from amazon though, cause just regular distilled didn't seem to work as good (either that or I just misjudged at first how quick you see a noticeable bluing effect). How difficult was doing the barrel pin once you set headspace on the nitrided barrel? Did you need special kinds of bits or did cobalt bits work? Once I get this bluing done I'll move on to my barrels too, it will be my first time doing all that extra barrel stuff as well, since my other kits all were ones that still used to have all the barrels intact.

  14. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haris122 View Post
    I'm currently in the process of rust bluing some stuff for some of my kits I still have. It's definitely a bit time consuming but it seems like it's working out good now (though due to how long it takes I'm not doing every part just a few big ones), thanks to some guidance from folks here. I did get special de-ionized water from amazon though, cause just regular distilled didn't seem to work as good (either that or I just misjudged at first how quick you see a noticeable bluing effect). How difficult was doing the barrel pin once you set headspace on the nitrided barrel? Did you need special kinds of bits or did cobalt bits work? Once I get this bluing done I'll move on to my barrels too, it will be my first time doing all that extra barrel stuff as well, since my other kits all were ones that still used to have all the barrels intact.
    I spent about $60 on drill bits from ak builder for this build. For the barrel pin we used an old drill press and a small vice. I initially went straight to the 7mm bit and tried to drill the hole, but I was getting nowhere because the barrel is round and the bit couldn’t “bite” anything. So I then drilled a small hole with my 3mm bit in the center, then stepped it up with the 4mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6.5mm and then the 7mm. It was very easy with the stepping up approach, but I wasted a half hour trying to start with the 7mm. The nitrated barrels from AOA are really hard, but that’s good in the long run.

  15. #89
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    Also I should mention the bits I got from akbuilder were black, so they probably weren’t cobalt. I would image a set of cobalt bits would be more than enough to drill the barrel pin.

  16. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeeps View Post
    I wouldn’t use cold blue. If you do, brownells oxpho blue is decent.

    Three major cons to cold bluing are durability and corrosion resistance, and uniformity.

    Cold blue is difficult to get to blue evenly, it wears off pretty easily, and it really doesn’t offer very decent rust resistance. (Real Bluing is not very good at corrosion resistance, but cold blue is really Quite bad at this).

    I would send it off to be blued if you want it blued.


    What I would do is:

    But brownells parkerizing solution, park it, and paint it. But that may not be what your looking for.

    The parkerizing idea is cheap, reusable (I’m on the same bottle of park several years later; I just top off with water when it gets low) and quick.

    But you’d want to sandblast the receiver first. A cheap compressor and a $20 top fill sandblaster with 120 grit aluminum oxide is what I use for gun parts. Everything comes out flawlessly.


    Of course if you want it blued, then don’t parkerize it.


    There are a lot of places that will blue parts or receivers. Bluing can be somewhat expensive however.
    I’ve already decided not to go the cold blue route, that seems to just be for superficial touch ups. I’m just going to oil the Childers receiver and build upon it as is and then plan on parking the whole thing when I’m done.

    How much is parkerizing solution? Is it necessary to paint it after parking it? Also, should the barrel be plugged when parkerizing?

 

 
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