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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
    With the current cost of kits, tools, barrels and receivers., the notion that there is a growth investment potential in home assembled AK's is very risky.

    Of course a regulation or import restriction change could alter the price of assembled AK's sometime in the future.

    I would not look at the build process as an investment in anything except pride of building your own firearm.
    The only thing Ill add is that you can always recoup most of the cost of the tools down the road, the depreciation is pretty flat after you drive it off the lot so the speak. As far as compliance parts, you need 6 Id go with receiver(1), Tapco trigger group(3), muzzle nut/brake(1), and gas piston(1) is really easier than you think, and that lets you keep the OG look with furn and you dont have to worry about mags.. When I switch out my first gas piston, I used a cordless drill to get the old rivet out, then squished the new rivet using a regular hammer and a sledge hammer as an anvil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
    With the current cost of kits, tools, barrels and receivers., the notion that there is a growth investment potential in home assembled AK's is very risky.

    Of course a regulation or import restriction change could alter the price of assembled AK's sometime in the future.

    I would not look at the build process as an investment in anything except pride of building your own firearm.
    I was just being sarcastic, I understand home builds aren’t for resale.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingnut308 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
    With the current cost of kits, tools, barrels and receivers., the notion that there is a growth investment potential in home assembled AK's is very risky.

    Of course a regulation or import restriction change could alter the price of assembled AK's sometime in the future.

    I would not look at the build process as an investment in anything except pride of building your own firearm.
    The only thing Ill add is that you can always recoup most of the cost of the tools down the road, the depreciation is pretty flat after you drive it off the lot so the speak. As far as compliance parts, you need 6 Id go with receiver(1), Tapco trigger group(3), muzzle nut/brake(1), and gas piston(1) is really easier than you think, and that lets you keep the OG look with furn and you dont have to worry about mags.. When I switch out my first gas piston, I used a cordless drill to get the old rivet out, then squished the new rivet using a regular hammer and a sledge hammer as an anvil.
    I didn’t realize the trigger group counted as 3 parts. That would be a better plan as I’d like to use the original furniture.

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  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mekanak47 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    Ha ha, truthfully that’s my plan as well. If I love the build process and want to try it 100% by myself, I might consider spending the $500+ on tools. But for my first build, I’m going to go through the process of acquiring everything I need gun parts wise like a rivet set or two*, US barrel, tapco SA trigger, US furniture and muzzle nut for 922r compliance. Then I plan on attempting to degrease and demill everything myself. I have a set of punches and a dremel tool. I’m hoping it’s fairly well demilled. I may need a press if the barrel pin is still in. We’ll see. But yea, at that point I need to start making friends. I’d be willing to drive about 3 hours or so to find a build buddy. I’d want someone to walk me through it even if I had all the tools. I’m not particularly handy, a very average guy when it comes to this stuff.
    Can you look at a framed doorway and tell if it’s fairly square, level and plum? Have you ever heard steel scream from galling pain?
    I could use a level to make sure a door is squared properly, but no I’ve never heard steel scream from galling pain. I have no experience working with metal and while I’ve hear the term galling before, truthfully I’m not sure what it means except that it’s bad. I do want to learn as much as I can though. So there’s that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    I could use a level to make sure a door is squared properly, but no I’ve never heard steel scream from galling pain. I have no experience working with metal and while I’ve hear the term galling before, truthfully I’m not sure what it means except that it’s bad. I do want to learn as much as I can though. So there’s that.
    What I meant is can you tell with your eyes when something looks crooked? Because with limited tools for measuring you’ll have to probably use those peepers to help properly populate your barrel. Straight the first time is optimal, not to mention lucky. Steel will start talking to you and using sign language to let you know if it’s in pain or hung up. Pay attention, go slow and if it feels stupid...maybe rethink it. One little mistake can sometimes be catastrophic and your $500 build then becomes a $750 build or a pile of parts collecting dust.
    Big thanks to Moses1986, 10Gauge, Pookie, NFA ARMS, Duck Durbin and everyone that served this country.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mekanak47 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    I could use a level to make sure a door is squared properly, but no I’ve never heard steel scream from galling pain. I have no experience working with metal and while I’ve hear the term galling before, truthfully I’m not sure what it means except that it’s bad. I do want to learn as much as I can though. So there’s that.
    What I meant is can you tell with your eyes when something looks crooked? Because with limited tools for measuring you’ll have to probably use those peepers to help properly populate your barrel. Straight the first time is optimal, not to mention lucky. Steel will start talking to you and using sign language to let you know if it’s in pain or hung up. Pay attention, go slow and if it feels stupid...maybe rethink it. One little mistake can sometimes be catastrophic and your $500 build then becomes a $750 build or a pile of parts collecting dust.
    Renting a press and doing this alone will be my last resort. My hope is that with a contribution of a six pack or two of their favorite craft beer and pizza delivery on me, that someone like you would help me for a few hours some weekend. Until then, I’m going to demill my kit and continue gathering everything I need while spending my evenings watching build videos on YouTube instead of Its always sunny reruns.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    Renting a press and doing this alone will be my last resort. My hope is that with a contribution of a six pack or two of their favorite craft beer and pizza delivery on me, that someone like you would help me for a few hours some weekend. Until then, I’m going to demill my kit and continue gathering everything I need while spending my evenings watching build videos on YouTube instead of Its always sunny reruns.
    I do like the “Sunny” program but I agree about the build vids. Like you mentioned, Ginsboy is good, Mel64d is good and there are others. I can tell you from experience that you should never weld one together instead of riveting unless it’s an emergency. I don’t have a problem with plug welding rails on one of my own K’s but a completely correct build will have properly placed spot welds on the rails. Also be careful de-milling parts because I have seen people butcher expensive parts by over drilling holes or putting grinder marks in your metal that can sometimes be difficult to completely remove.
    Big thanks to Moses1986, 10Gauge, Pookie, NFA ARMS, Duck Durbin and everyone that served this country.

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    I’ve seen Mel64D too. I was surprised he didn’t start doing this until 2012, but then again he’s a machinist so it probably comes natural to him.

    My plan was to use my dremel just to flatten the top of the rivets, then use a drill smaller than the rivet just about half way down, then just tap on it with a punch until it comes out?

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    Also, my kit arrives tomorrow so my plan is to de grease and account for all my pieces tomorrow night, then demill over the weekend. What’s the best way to remove cosmoline without removing the paint or finish? I’m sure pain thinner would work, but wouldn’t that damage any old finish making it more susceptible to flash rusting? I don't know shit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    Also, my kit arrives tomorrow so my plan is to de grease and account for all my pieces tomorrow night, then demill over the weekend. What’s the best way to remove cosmoline without removing the paint or finish? I’m sure pain thinner would work, but wouldn’t that damage any old finish making it more susceptible to flash rusting? I don't know shit.
    Find a pan and boil it on your bbq.
    Hand clean wood or plastic.
    Coat metal parts in oil when done.
    Big thanks to Moses1986, 10Gauge, Pookie, NFA ARMS, Duck Durbin and everyone that served this country.

  12. #26
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    I see you're in Cincy, I have a harbor freight press I could let go if you are in the Columbus area. Its the 12 ton frame with a 20 ton jack. I sold all my jigs and that is all thats left.

  13. #27
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    So I use a garbage pan to boil the pieces in water on my grill. No solutions used at all?

    Then should I put the pieces in a pan of motor oil overnight like when parkerizing?

  14. #28
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    Boil, rinse and dip for metal parts. That’s my method but there are many others.
    Big thanks to Moses1986, 10Gauge, Pookie, NFA ARMS, Duck Durbin and everyone that served this country.

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wingnut308 View Post
    I see you're in Cincy, I have a harbor freight press I could let go if you are in the Columbus area. Its the 12 ton frame with a 20 ton jack. I sold all my jigs and that is all thats left.
    If it comes to that I may be interested, but that’s thinking too far ahead at this point. I don’t have an end mill to drill a barrel pin and I’m certainly not going to be buying one of those, so I’d still have to pay someone to headspace the barrel even with the press.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mekanak47 View Post
    Boil, rinse and dip for metal parts. That’s my method but there are many others.
    Alright, we’ll thats what I’ll do then. Thanks.

 

 
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