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  1. #136
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    Update:

    So this evening I used my dremel with a grind stone tip to sand down the face of my hammer. I sanded then reinstalled the trigger and checked at least 4 times. While I can say that the amount of pressure I have to tap on the carrier with my palm has decreased a bit, the bolt still catches on the hammer. My concern is that I’ve ground the hammer face quite a bit already and I don’t want to take off too much material from the hammer.

    I think I should also point out, that early on in this build we had determined that the ejector side rail on my Childers receiver was a few ten thousands too low and caused me to have to file the left side of my front trunnion just a bit so that the carrier slid into battery and didn’t catch on the trunnion which was slightly too high due to the the left rail being slightly too low.

    I have a feeling the left rail, or ejector side rail as it’s called, being ever so slightly too low is what is causing the hammer to clip the bottom of the bolt carrier.

    Is there a way to find out exactly where it’s catching? I know I’ve heard of people putting some kind of light paint on the parts to see where the friction is. I want to know exactly where it is catching before I remove anymore material. Thoughts?

  2. #137
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    Does it still hang up bad when you pull the bolt back or can you pull it back and it’ll slam home, but sorta catch? If the latter is the case I think you need to shoot it and it’ll loosen up.

  3. #138
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    Quite "Is there a way to find out exactly where it’s catching? I know I’ve heard of people putting some kind of light paint on the parts to see where the friction is. I want to know exactly where it is catching before I remove anymore material. Thoughts?"

    You could put some Dykem Blue layout fluid {machistes use it} on the parts and see where it is hitting..
    I would not grind the hammer any more.
    I am with last poster{Dieselnut}. shoot it and see how it goes..
    Last edited by packrat; 12-02-2019 at 08:15 AM.

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  5. #139
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    You can use a sharpe to mark parts also.
    needs moar AK

    or beer


  6. #140
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    Update:

    I only grinder and then polished the hammer face, nothing else. Anyway, it still stuck on the bolt and needed a small palm tap, but I took it to the range anyway.

    Ran 40 rounds through it, had 35 complete cycles, one hammer catch requiring a palm tap, and 4 light primer strikes, that required a manual cycling to remove the round.

    The action definitely still needs some tweaking in my opinion or is this the normal breaking in period?

    Lastly, this damn thing must be over gassed because it kicks a lot harder than any other Ak, I’ve fired. A real cheek slapper!

    On the positive side, seemed fairly accurate without having even been sighted in yet.
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  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cincymaga View Post
    Update:

    I only grinder and then polished the hammer face, nothing else. Anyway, it still stuck on the bolt and needed a small palm tap, but I took it to the range anyway.

    Ran 40 rounds through it, had 35 complete cycles, one hammer catch requiring a palm tap, and 4 light primer strikes, that required a manual cycling to remove the round.

    The action definitely still needs some tweaking in my opinion or is this the normal breaking in period?

    Lastly, this damn thing must be over gassed because it kicks a lot harder than any other Ak, I’ve fired. A real cheek slapper!

    On the positive side, seemed fairly accurate without having even been sighted in yet.
    Don’t know about anyone else but in my experience I don’t remember much if any break-in period. With the few I built so far, one worked pretty much right off the bat pretty reliably (with an odd exception but let me not derail things into that) while my other had some issues that needed further tweaking before it started working properly. Though in your case maybe it could get better from the action smoothing itself out a bit from the movement.The bolt catching on the hammer to the point that it stops it’s movement during actual firing I don’t think I experienced though. If I had to guess I almost wonder if the fcg pin holes were maybe drilled out a touch too high, so everything fcg wise sits maybe a touch higher than ideal? Or for some strange reason the hammer isn’t getting caught by the disconnector (not sear got my terminology flopped) at all maybe so it more quickly pops back up, but I’m just reaching for shit right now. If it was the disconnector though, maybe you’d be having problems with doubling though, so that might be way off on my end. On your light primer strikes, did you end up trying those rounds a 2nd time to see that they weren’t just bad rounds? I usually have 1 or 2 every 1000 round case of the steel cased russian stuff, where a round will just not do anything regardless of how many times you try it. Like someone forgot to put a primer in, even though outwardly the primer is dented good. That being said for 4 rounds out of 40 total to do that, I would suspect that’s not the problem, as that seems too frequent to be the rounds.
    Last edited by Haris122; 12-03-2019 at 06:31 AM.

  8. #142
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    Iím no AK expert, but perhaps a stiffer recoil spring might help. The first Romy I built was from a well worn kit and although it cycled fine, she kicked hard and was throwing cases halfway across the firing line. When I cycled the rifle by hand, it just felt kind of weak compared to a couple of my store bought AKs. An ALG recoil spring really seemed to help with taming it down a bit.
    On my latest build, the ALG spring was too stiff for the rifle. I could tell after putting it in the action felt real stiff but I tried shooting it anyways. She was short stroking and I had a some failure to feeds, about 4 or 5 per mag. Putting the stock spring back in cured it. Seems like every rifle I build handles differently. Perhaps it depends on how worn the original parts are.

  9. #143
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    Light primer strikes and the hammer has been profiled. Hmm. Remove top cover and recoil spring. Is the hammer properly striking the rear of the bolt? Hammer should be touching the top and bottom of the rear of the bolt. If the hammer has an incorrect angle on it the firing pin will not be pushed all the way forward.
    Big thanks to Moses1986, 10Gauge, Pookie, NFA ARMS, Duck Durbin and everyone that served this country.

  10. #144
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    Thanks for the input. I us d the Ak builder jig for the FCG so I’m pretty confident my holes aren’t a bit too high. We had noticed that the left rail was installed too low on the Childers receiver such that the left rail was a ten thousandth or so lower that the front trunnion. So we filed down the front trunnion a bit so the carrier didn’t jump when it hit it.

    I can see some pinning on the left locking lug of my bolt where it’s striking the left side of the trunnion, also there is some light pinning on the ejector face as that is connected to the left rail and is hence slightly too low. However, these are two issues which should smooth each other out as the parts “mate” through repeated firing.

    I believe this is why the hammer is catching to bolt so bad. However, I started grinding and polishing the entire face of my hammer, not just the hump as I should have done. Therefore, I think my hammer face Is now not perfectly flat, so that is the hammer hits the pin in the wrong place it results in a weak primer strike. I’ve also noticed the tail of the firing pin has some pinning already.

    At the end of the day, I may have destroyed the hammer, but that’s a cheap replacement.

    I just need a way to grind down a hammer low enough to compensate for the slightly defective rail. Aks have such loose tolerances and the defect is so small, that I’m really hoping I can work on the hammer without touching the rail. I’ve heard of people flanging up the end of a rail so to speak to correct for this, but I don’t really wanna mess with that.

  11. #145
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    I also know I could put a buffer on the recoil spring to shorten the stroke a bit so it doesn’t ride the hammer quite as much, but that just seems weird to me. It shouldn’t need it! This kit also appeared to have fired very little so I feel like the spring is pretty strong already.

    I’ll keep tinkering...

  12. #146
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    Sorry, one last mention. I bought the rak trigger group from century, but my receiver was a single trigger cut and the trigger that came with it was a double hook trigger, so I used the original trigger and put the slant break from RAS47 on it to compensate for the lost US part.

    I wouldn’t think this would cause the issue, but perhaps it is.

  13. #147
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    Need encouragement, rifle is fucked up!

    Ugh, so after the last range visit I had what I though were light primer strikes, they were but they weren’t caused by the firing pin or a weak hammer spring.

    The left rail on my receiver was installed too low, so I had to polish significant material off the hammer to get the bolt to slide over it.

    This allowed me to fire the weapon but occasionally I would get what I assumed was a weak primer strike even though I hadn’t thought I pulled the trigger. What was happening was the hammer was not resetting and following the carrier and causing a weak primer strike. This is very dangerous because the rifle could potentially go full auto if the strikes were strong enough to ignite the primer.

    This weak I polished the hammer more in order to smooth out the action, assuming the occasional light primer strikes were a fluke.

    Well at the range today, every single time I fired the hammer failed to reset and followed the bolt carrier back lightly striking the primer of the next round but thankfully not igniting it. I then had to manually eject that round to fire again, this wasting every other round and having to constantly manually cycle.

    I stopped after twenty rounds (10 shots) when it occurred to me that this could be potentially dangerous.

    I’m sure this is happening because I polished the hammer too much such that it won’t reset, but that was my only way to get the fucking bolt carrier over it.

    I bought an Ak builder fire control group jig so I’m 99% sure my pin holes were not drilled to high. As I mentioned before we had to file the front trunnion because the left rail was low, so I’m sure that is the cause of all this.

    It’s a Childers receiver too! I have so much time and money in this project I’m at a loss for words. I don’t know what to do...

  14. #148
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    To make it worse, the two professional Ak builders I contacted are not able to work on the rifle as it’s an 80% receiver.

    Just shit out of luck.

    If anyone on this board is an accomplished builder within 2-3 hours of Cincinnati who thinks they may be able to help me adjust the left rail, please private message me.

    I’m getting close to quitting this hobby and selling the $400 of tools I now have for whatever I can get, but I really don’t want to do that. It’s just been complication after complication...

    I laugh at myself being anger at a slightly canted gas block a month ago. Now I’d be grateful for a functioning firearm.

  15. #149
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    sounds like you have taken to much material off of the hammer, with the gun empty and the mag out hold the trigger all the way back and cycle the bolt carrier and see if the hammer is catching on the disconnector.

  16. #150
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    Are you certain it is hanging up on the hammer? most of the time at least for me when the bolt carrier is hanging up it is getting caught on the top rail?

 

 
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