I'm not happy with available trigger groups - alternatives? - Page 2
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  1. #16
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    Re: I'm not happy with available trigger groups - alternatives?

    On my 20 plus builds Iíve only used tapco G2ís. They all work just fine and Iíve never broken one. I remember the first tie that I decided I was going to try and tune one. Before I did I ordered an extra because I was convinced I was going to screw it up. Granted I love tinkering with this stuff. The last one I did took me about two hours and it is the best ever. I guess it comes down toÖ do you have the time, money if you mess up and the desire to build running threw your blood?


  2. #17
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    Re: I'm not happy with available trigger groups - alternatives?

    Quote Originally Posted by (snipped for brevity)
    The K-Var trigger groups are almost a direct copy of the Bulgarian style FCG. Plenty strong and better looking IMHO than the TAPCO (big logo) trigger groups. Both work very well and you never hear any bad press about them. There was the one recall on the disconnectotr spring channel. No big deal and not a catastrophic defect.., just return for replacement.

    what about the broken triggers and trigger slap on the Arsenals?


    Could have sworn I remember something about a bad batch of triggers that would fracture a few years ago but I can't find anything right now...

    Here is the latest on this (unless someone has more recent info):

    The early Metal Injection Molded hammers that Arsenal installed on their milled rifles have had several breakages, notably one of the "ears" of the hammer unexpectedly shears off, and at pretty low round counts.

    Arsenal redesigned the hammers for the stamped AK's, and I've not read of any of these specifically being named as having failed.

    Anybody have any other info?

    If there are failures of triggers or disconnectors, somebody please post some links.
    Celebrating 20 years of AK ownership: 1992-2012

  3. #18
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    Re: I'm not happy with available trigger groups - alternatives?

    It is an AK not a target rifle. I have never experienced an accidental discharge with an AK/AKM/AK74. But I do not strike them with mallets either. They have served well for over 50 years with a basic designed trigger gropup ..,the US replacements are as good as or better than original. No big deal in a battle rifle,.
    [/quote]


    Wow. There's a lot of hyperbole in this thread. Unless you're looking for a rifle that at 100 yards will shoot thirty rounds through one hole (as most AKs will do - if you could only get a good trigger group!) the Tapco trigger group is wonderful. It's very smooth with a crisp release. If it's not, for crying out loud, smooth the mating surfaces of the hammer and trigger. What, five minutes with a Dremel?

    HMMMM well its not even really a AK any more its a semi auto and IMOO needs a better trigger.

    I likely have spent more time messing with the AK trigger system than most and likely more than some of the designers of the aftermarket stuff. I have trigger jigs, triggger dyno,s that duplicate the hole place ment of at least thre flat manufactureas and two reciver builders. so I can file fit smooth and adjust out side the gun to get 99% of the work done before install. i have shot .390" groups out of a AK basrd rifle on a untempred tapco bent flat reciver. the system can be very accurate but it will not happen with any factory trigger. for thse who cant build or are not willing to take the time to under stand how it all works and that on change affects all the others a Red Star or possably a Jarid are the minium for serious target or varmint rifles. a carry around loaded rifle can be pretty good with a polished and tuned factory type trigger. Ill stand behind my assment that the factory trigger is garbage compared to most other quality fire arms out there. its a sveap trigger made for a cheap gun that is designed to not discharge under extremely harsh handeling and battel field conditions. I serioulsy doubt that even 1% of the AK owners here will ever use there AK in any thing close to those conditions there fore IMOO the factory trigger is wrong for its useage Un less your useage is shooting dirtclods and screwing around and having fun and dont really care if you hit any thing. however if you want to use the AK for any thing mor ethat you mght see in real life then a better trigger is a must. for me its hunting both deer and varmints as well as target to get the varmint part dialed in. that takes a better trigger. I cant imagine having anything as bad as the AK trigger on any of my other hunting guns or even a cheap 22LR for that matter and Ill be damed if Im going to have it on my hunting pistols. My groups went form 3.5 to under 1" with my first trigger job.

    I look for a crisp breaking trigger not a smooth break. It good to have a really smmoth pretravel but the break has to be predictably consistant and sharp. a breaking class rod is the best example I have heard to describe a good trigger.

    The Ak is capaible off really good accuracy. the triggers on most any AK has much room for improvement. this whole well its good enough for commy soldiers its good enough for me dont fly IMOO. the AK was designed to be full auto and for that the creepy un predictable break and gritty feel of many is fine.

    However in our world were stuck with shooting one shot at a time and trying to hit what were aiming at the first time not 1 out of 30 in a full auto mag dump. All of my AKs with new barrels or good barrela shoot under 1.5" at 100 and many have done under 1" including a stock barreld AMD 65 hunting pistol with worked stock triger. I also have several Target builds that do under 1/2" with a stamped Tapco .045 reciver. none of this is likely possable with a stock un modifed trigger. the US replacements are as good as the originals they copy but that is noting great. Some factory triggers may LOOK better but dont offer nayreal advantage over any others I have yet to see a factory or unmodifed US trigger that broke clean they all have way to much pree travel regardless of whos reciver there in. the US triggers are designed to fit all of the vaarianles out there and the only way to do that is to give lots of pretravel. there is way to much side play to give any consistancy of break and on a double hook it even worse as your trying to get two hooks to be the same every time. its tough to get any semi auto to have zero pretravel as it will start bump firing the next round as it rebounds of the your shoulder. trying to squease of a shot with out a solid pull to keep the trigger back is tough.

    I run a modifed Tapco or stock trigger If I have enough 922 parts. I add adjusting screws to take up pre travel and use shims or care full grinding of a cut off second hook to adjust over travel. I maximise disconector engagement and use a heavier spring.

    I also grind were the spring hits the trigger untill one or both sides of the spring barely contact the recver floor, I do this mainly on two stage trigger so the first stage is super light. and dosent add considerably to the second stage. the spring gives full trigger return past the lock point it then hits the reciver Usualy on one side.

    I polish the hell out of the mating surfaces and also sharpen the edges so that the break is predictable. I use single stage triggers on most of my builds. I have never seen a hook break and I doubt I will. i remove all side play in the hammer the trigger and the disconector. Im not abig fan of those sleaves on the tapco as they add play nut they can be made to work well. I fit my pin holes in the rciver so the pins are tight and i try to find pins that are on the larger size of the spectrum. measure some and you will be suprised that there not all exactly the same. On my target builds I do away with the factory pins and make over sized highly polished and hardend ones. I lighhten the hammer up some and polish were the carrier rides over and often reprofile it with better ramp angles i also polish the carrier and some times reprofile them as well. look at the differance of a Yugo VS Rommy and you will see why. I try to get the hammer to only go down far enough to engage the disconector any extra is unessacry and only allows the hammer to spring back into the disconectot with more force and momentum. timint the release of the disconector and the position of the trigger to catch the hook on a nocreep trigger is tough as the hammer has to catch on something that if has any travel it will go off. If I have the gas shut off I can run a zero creep trigger but I hav eto have some travel in SA as long as the let off it predictable and crisp like breaking glass and not sliding off a hill in gravel I can shoot pretty damm good with about a 2 LB pull.

    I am amaized at how guys will soend thousands of dollars on builds with perfect finish correct numbers, every dodda ever bolted on and put optics ETC but then install a $25 dollar trigger and call it good. the extra between a Red Star and a tapco is less than two boxs of good ammo.

    I hunt with mine and shoot out to 800 yards on varmints and hopefully over a 1000 Yard this year with the 6mm-284 and 22 cheetah fast twist and trust me it wont be possable with a spray and pray trigger system.

    here is a 10 shoot group with a good trigger at 200 yards in 223 ona traget AK

    [img][img][/img][/img]


    edit HMMMMM seems the picture sending stuff has changed i cant seem to figure it out some step by step stuff would help. ERRRRRRR

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  5. #19
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    Re: I'm not happy with available trigger groups - alternatives?

    can some one explain this to me??

    Showing images in posts Ľ Adding an image to a post
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