vz58 headspaceing - Page 2
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  1. #16
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    I have .014 between the bolt carrier and locking shoulder with a NO GO gauge. Is this enough? The bolt will close with the NOGO.

    Also, what is the number on the side of the locking shoulder?

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by avgrant
    I have .014 between the bolt carrier and locking shoulder with a NO GO gauge. Is this enough? The bolt will close with the NOGO.

    Also, what is the number on the side of the locking shoulder?
    I would say your headspace should be much tighter than that. Again I stress make sure barrel is stopping on bolt not on a peen in your receiver. Proper tight headspace on these will not even close on a clymer go guage. Press barrel right up against bolt with lugs and carrier installed, check that it closes on a few different live rounds(with firing pin removed and little to no pressure applied) check to make sure it doesn't close on nogo guage. With proper headspace there should be little to no gap behind locking lugs even with empty chamber.

    I have found the numbers on the lugs do not mean anything that affects headspace
    I prefer the vz 58 to the ak 47, as it is 11 better
    www.bonesteelarms.com

  3. #18

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    "The bolt will close with the NOGO"

    Then it is not correct. Sorry - I know this not what you want to hear. Comrade? Your face is far more important to me, and your family, than the build.

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  5. #19
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    Trotsky

    I have shot it without it blowing up. There seems to be a fine line between go and nogo.

    I been having a problem punching out the barrel pin. Guess I am going to have to keep trying and get it head spaced.

    Thanks

  6. #20

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    avgrant....

    You mentioned that you've fired the gun... did you collect any of the fired casings? Why I ask: get those casings, then look at the rear of the case, about 1/8" forward of the rim, for any sign of a bulge. It's often best to FEEL for this, not look for it.

    If you have no bulges? Your casings are fully supported, and your HS is fine. But if you find bulges? PLEASE don't fire that gun again until the barrel is reset. Headspace is simply a measurement that we make to avoid catestrophic case failure... sometimes, even a rifle with a perfect "measured" headspace will produce bulged casings upon firing. Sometimes, the opposite is true (bad measurement, great looking casings). The definitive data comes from actually firing the gun - something no one wants to do if they SUSPECT bad HS

  7. #21
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    I just got back from firing mine for the first time. Yes, I sat under the heavy wooden bench and reached over to get the first round off.

    It worked fine. Put another 40 rounds through it and it functioned flawless. No bulgy cases. Cases look good. Man, that was some fun. Shoots great!!!

    I found when pressing the barrel in I thought it was all the way (bolt tight against gauge). Well it was tight. So I relived the pressure and checked it again and it did not seem tight. So I pressed again.

    Re-pressed twice until it stayed tight. I think there is some spring to the press or something.

    Just checked head space again and it has not moved.

  8. #22
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    Trosky

    I built two VZ58's and one closes on the nogo and one stays open about 3/16" of an inch. I kept rounds from both. I really can not feel a bulge and mic'ed them and they are the same.

    If I can get the pin out, I am going to rehead space. The problem is I can not get it to press out and I broke a mill and drill bit.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by avgrant
    Trosky

    I built two VZ58's and one closes on the nogo and one stays open about 3/16" of an inch. I kept rounds from both. I really can not feel a bulge and mic'ed them and they are the same.

    If I can get the pin out, I am going to rehead space. The problem is I can not get it to press out and I broke a mill and drill bit.
    use a bfh and a starter punch to get it moving.
    I prefer the vz 58 to the ak 47, as it is 11 better
    www.bonesteelarms.com

  10. #24
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    head space

    The BFH aint workin. Before I rip it apart, I did the tape method of head spacing. On a Wolf round I have to put .023 of tape on the back before the bolt will NOT close.

    When you do this method, is there a thickness? Am I in spec or do I need to go back to the BFH?

  11. #25
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    that is borderline safe. I would reccommend the bfh again. with a starter puch and a 2 lb hammer it should come right out.
    I prefer the vz 58 to the ak 47, as it is 11 better
    www.bonesteelarms.com

  12. #26
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    Why are so many people using tape and a cartridge to measure headspace? You’re paying $100s+ for parts kits and more for special tools including 20 ton presses but win’t spend $100 for gauges to be certain the headspace is exactly correct before drilling a hole through the frame to hold the barrel. Aren’t you ruining the gun if you measure wrong?
    I think I am a cheapskate but still pay to buy a gauge. Is there something so special about your tape you believe it can replace headspace gauges? Does any company certify their tape to be a guaranteed thickness? How do you know for certain how thick your tape is? Do you use a gauge to measure 0.003-0.0011”? Is scotch, masking, or duct tape more accurate? Where do you place the tape to use it as a gauge? Across the cartridge base? I can’t believe you can reach inside the rifle chamber to add tape to where the should fits. How can you trust your life to a piece of tape?
    Maybe I am just too ignorant to understand so please use simple terms without abbreviations as you explain. I really want to understand. I read of people people paying to Cerokote their rifle once assembled but not buying a set of gauges. Doesn’t Cerokoting a rifle cost much more than a set of gauges? Can’t you use the gauges repeatedly but must pay again for every Cerokote? Please tell me so I can understand

 

 
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