What is the best way to get oil to penetrate metal?
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Thread: What is the best way to get oil to penetrate metal?

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    What is the best way to get oil to penetrate metal?

    So on my XM16E1 reweld I've been trying to darken the lower and over time the right side has taken on a darker grey hue and while the left side is almost there I have a spot that the left side just wont darken (Less than 25%) is there anything I can do to get it to cooperate?
    Oh god and his infinite wisdom would never have ordained that!

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    Buy it alcohol and dinner.

    Er.. I mean.. pictures would probably help. If it's small then you could use something a little more aggressive than if it was a larger patch. As far as specifics... eeeehhh someone else has the answer there.
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    Never thought about it, but heat should help. Opens up the grain of the metal a bit so the oil can go deeper, giggity.

    Not alot of heat either, get it warm, not burning hot. You're just evaporating the oil at that point.
    Last edited by Thrasher; 07-20-2019 at 10:32 AM.
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    a penetrating oil like Kroil may work.
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    Is it in the spot where it was welded? If so it could just be the filler material from the rods being a different type of metal. Getting a good finish on a re-weld that's not going to have a painted surface requires being really careful about matching the filler to the original metal as well as the skill of the welder.
    If it's not in the area of a weld then try some of the penetrating oils to see if it helps even it out some, kroil, 3n1, pb blaster, etc.
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    Heat will open the pores in metal to let oil penetrate, works great with cast iron pans.
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    Disregard this as ir applies to ferrous metal vs aluminum.

    Oil is not going to darken the metal.

    Generally eliminating the oil and or using an etching chemical and using cold blue can darken the metal.

    As noted the weld metal used will impact this.

    Muriatic Acid is readily available. It will etch metal. It must be used with care as it is 30% Hydrochloric Acid in water solution. A q-tip eih the acid on the degreased weld area. Then apply cold blue immediately., then water flush., then oil liberally.
    Not a guarantee., as the weld rod used my not react well to this.
    Last edited by AKBLUE; 07-21-2019 at 05:32 AM.

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    Cold blue won't work on aluminum. I know they make something called alumablack, and it might work similarly, but the techniques used to blend finish on steel may not work quite the same with aluminum. I don't believe it'll work on anodized aluminum either, it probably needs to be bare. Not really sure what the best approach to take would be

    Quote Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
    Oil is not going to darken the metal.

    Generally eliminating the oil and or using an etching chemical and using cold blue can darken the metal.

    As noted the weld metal used will impact this.

    Muriatic Acid is readily available. It will etch metal. It must be used with care as it is 30% Hydrochloric Acid in water solution. A q-tip eih the acid on the degreased weld area. Then apply cold blue immediately., then water flush., then oil liberally.
    Not a guarantee., as the weld rod used my not react well to this.

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    What 10g said. He’s a pro.
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    Aluminum will take oil, and it'll change the appearance of it as in it'll look wet or dry, which might help blend the finish look a bit it doesn't actually finish the material. Anodizing is a form of aluminum oxide, it'll take a dying process, that's what that alumiblack posted earlier basically is.
    If you ever want it to really look factory again you'll have to re-anodize it, but there's a lot of guys who've tried to get that factory color and failed. You may want to try asking around over on ar15.com in the retro forum.
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    Mybad above. I aomehow overlooked the model/weapon type.
    The do make aluminum oxidizing black as noted.

    Dusregard my post as it related to a ferrous metal receiver and weld.

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    This just dawned on me, but I don't know if you'd be willing to do it (like sweeping crap under the rug).
    Since it's an XM16E1, why not wrap it up in some "jungle tape" a la Ian McCollum's rifle in the vid below, then distress the edges with some steel wool.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH8AsmZcDI0
    Again, you're probably after the fresh outta the factory look, but a clone of a well used rifle might be cool as well.
    The actual, legit 100mph tape is called "Polyken 231." Easily found with google foo.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrasher View Post
    This just dawned on me, but I don't know if you'd be willing to do it (like sweeping crap under the rug).
    Since it's an XM16E1, why not wrap it up in some "jungle tape" a la Ian McCollum's rifle in the vid below, then distress the edges with some steel wool.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH8AsmZcDI0
    Again, you're probably after the fresh outta the factory look, but a clone of a well used rifle might be cool as well.
    The actual, legit 100mph tape is called "Polyken 231." Easily found with google foo.
    There ya go.. just get some Pokemon 321 and make it your own.

    oh and OP? Post pictures, damn it!
    Last edited by 10Gauge; 07-21-2019 at 08:04 AM. Reason: a little spicy
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    here ya go
    Oh god and his infinite wisdom would never have ordained that!

 

 
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