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Bolt Sticking

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Jjcuna 
#1 ·
I was owed money ant this waffen werks was my payment. The bolt is hard to cycle bye hand. If I perss down on the bolt it cycles fine. Here is a link https://youtu.be/f86Qvn81HNU
 
#7 ·
And if I hand cycle a couple of my 1911s they will jam up. The point being is trying to replicate the violent action of a ak by hand will get you different results.

Texasgunsmith could be correct but don't go changing out parts until you have shot it and there are issues. Sometimes things just need to be broken in.
 
#4 ·
The thing you are pressing down on is the carrier. The bolt is smaller rotating part inside of carrier. I had a friend with a similiar problem on a stamped ddi. He had installed wolf brand spring on hammer. For whatever reason that spring is wider at the base, where the pin goes through. At any rate, it was enough to actually spread the top portion of receiver where rails for carrier ride. So depending on either ammo on trigger hammer pressing up it would make carrier jam or stick. To fix it we put an original hammer spring back in, but found the receiver was still spread open too much on top. So we used wood blocks in a vice, so not to scratch receiver, and squeezed upper portion of receiver in a vice. It took a couple of tries, as we were being careful not to squeeze too much, and we kept checking carrier movement, as well as side to side play, but in the end we got it nice.

Checking the small ramps in carrier tracks where it rides on rails may help as well. Maybe need a little more ramp ground with a dremel. Also an upgraded smother trigger may help with a rounder lower profile hammer face.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the info. I have a feeling the receiver is too wide as you stated. When I pull back on the charging handle the bolt starts to rotate and then sticks. If I press down on the carrier and pull back, the bolt rotates fine. I have a saiga and tried that carrier and bolt with same results. If I take the spring out it will rotate perfectly. As soon as I put spring in it seems to cause the back of the carrier to rise up in the back and becomes very hard to charge.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for everyone's input. I'm pretty sure it's not an issue of needing to be broken in. The rifle fires and cycles fine but there is tons of play left to right and up and down with the carrier. I have compared this to my other variants and none of them are this way. Sometimes it's not so bad and at other times it is extremely hard to charge. It's not at the point where the carrier rides over the hammer. It is when the bolt is rotating it gets stuck. If I take the top cover off and press down on the carrier it will cycle smoothly.
 
#9 ·
If it shoots and operates fine then your all good. But, if you feel there is too much excessive clearances then can you get us a measurements between the top rails? WW rifles did have receiver issues so it could be a issue.

Keep in mind that the amount of clearence between your saiga and the WW will vary. Two completey different rifles made in different parts of the world with different techniques and materials.
 
#10 ·
I would inspect the ejector rail and see if it shows signs of excessive contact. If that rail is too long or extends upward or downward too much (out of spec) it will bind and redirect the carrier. I think this was a known issue on the WW receivers after they went away from using the NDS. Relatively easy fix if that is the case.

If you have another AK you can measure/compare the receiver width to verify any issue on that.
 
#11 ·
Wow yet another issue. I can take a round and place it in the chamber and it sticks out about 1/4" I put the same round in the chamber of my saiga and it fits flush. If I try to force it in the chamber it gets stuck. Looks like I got a lemon. I will measure the rails tonight for the other issue. Thanks again for all input
 
#13 · (Edited)
Look for a knick or metal smudge on the chamber face of the barrel. It may have been knicked at install. Inspect it carefully and use a dental pick etc., to probe the chamber wall for a ledge at the rear at the face.

Use a brass cartridge with black marker and thumb pressure it into the chamber. Remove it and look for the contact area in the scrapes in the marker etc.
 
#18 ·
I had an issue with my slr107fr recently, the gas tube has a lip that needs to seat into a groove in the sight block. It was causing the bolt carrier piston to bind up in the gas block not letting the carrier all the way home.

This is probably not your issue but often a problem one place manifests itself in symptoms else where. just sayin
 
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