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Thread: Straightening Milled receiver rails ?

  1. #16
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    I used a combination of drills, piloted drills, and piloted reamers to drill up the holes. I laid out the trigger cut out and marked it and drilled the four corners and used a dremel to rough it in then used some files and jewelers files to finish them out. A chainsaw file works really well it is just undersized for the radius call outs on the tortort dimensions so the chainsaw file i have worked out great.

    I am going to have to look for that cutter for the selector notches thats a step I've been holding off of. I did some by had on my khyber build but I'm not going to chance it on these. Those you did on your scrap receiver look good your getting close to the correct look the 90 x 3/4 cuts look close enough to me from the pic.

    These drills and reamers are the steps i use on all my builds all of the sizes for the trigger pin holes, safety selector cut out, and barrel pin are all in there. Im also just using my clapped out cheap skil drill press i got from lower a few years ago. Its time for a chuck replacement the one thats on it has some runout. Thats is another reason i use the step drills and reamers.




  2. #17
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    Good to see you're using pretty much the same tool set I've got. I hate it when I see someone's perfect work only to find out they have a Bridgeport and 50 years experience with it. You're trigger and safety cuts look factory.

    Did you use Tortort's or Robert Forbus' measurements?

    I finally got Stottman's photo book and it confirms what I feared about the T3 notches. They're not simple plunge cuts (footballs) like a Yugo. They're elongated with straight edges on top and bottom. I'll need to make a short jig so that I can plunge and slide it across the X axis a few mm.

    Yeah, i think we've all done notches by hand. I have a pretty crappy hand, but it's fitting to the build.

    Last edited by Hueto; 10-07-2016 at 05:38 PM.
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  3. #18
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    I used Tortorts dimensions for trigger and safety cut outs and bounced them off some dimensions a very generous member gave me. I just mirrored the measurements for the double hook trigger.

    I just orders a 3/4" 90 degree cutter on eBay was $31 shipped. Ill have to come up with something myself to do the cuts. The only real picture if been able to find of the selector cuts was on Tantals website Avtomats in Action on the SLR 100 receiver. The notches look to me like the simply plunge cuts like on the yugo receivers although like it states it a replica. I haven't seen or can find high quality pics of the real deal.
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  5. #19
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    ^^^Thats a good looking build I'm liking the milled front end on there. How does she group with that barrel on there. Looks like you electro etched your selector markings what templates did you use or did you roll your own. I bought a Silhouette vinyl cutter awhile back but font that small is just about at its capacity as far as it turning out looking right. I still use the templates i make though.


    I only located the rear sling mount location today. I referenced this old thread Need help with locating the sling loop on a milled receiver



    Hueto what are your plans to make the cleaning rod fit? I just drilled a hole down the middle of the receiver all the way to the bullet guide hole. You can just see the last 4 threads of the cleaning rod.
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  6. #20
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    I used that same pic from Tantal's sight, but wanted some pics of the real deal. Surprisingly, there isn't much available, even in the Ianacamo book. Get the $10 download of Stottman's 4th edition. There's some nice shots of an AK and an AKMS. I'm going to scale those to get the selector stop pin location. Robert Forbus even said that the pin location isn't even referenced on the original Soviet blueprints.

  7. #21
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    That's a spare parts build I put together for my dad. I used a Centerfire lottery Yugo barrel, and it groups well enough- about minute of barn which is not much better than I can do anyways.

    Thanks for the sling loop info- That helps a ton.

    Yes, I used an etch template from Weaponmark, but it didn't etch very deep for whatever reason. My test etched on some Yugo scrap went great and I was a little surprised that the AK Builder flat didn't etch as deep in the same amount of time.

    As for the cleaning clearance, I didn't think that would be an issue until I saw a mention of it on the Files. I'll probably just do what you did. I do want to conceal the rivet hole with a pin though. As much as I want to mill a pocket for a proper plate, I don't have the time or the machinery to do it. Heck, I also lack the skill. Boosted did a great job on his first go, but he's light years ahead of me

    Oh yeah- if you're looking to buy a swivel, Ak builder has new East German loops. I thought KVar was the only vendor but I didn't want to pay $30 to ship one. I found out about the ones at Ak builder AFTER I bought two from the classifieds. If you need a used one, I've got your back, just let me know.
    Last edited by Hueto; 10-08-2016 at 08:57 PM.

  8. #22
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    I picked up two of those east german sling swivels from ak-builder the other day along with some double hook triggers. They came in yesterday. Thanks for the offer.

  9. #23
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    FYI- the AK-Builder bullet guide drops right in and aligns perfectly. I haven't been able to function test it, but it does appear to fit very well. I've haven't had such luck with AKs and parts compatability since a CFS Yugo barrel headspaced perfectly without welding up the old pin slot.

  10. #24
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    I'm thinking that I would like to hide the barrel pin as much as possible. I've seen the one on Tantal's site where the builder peened both ends of the pin into the receiver and ground it smooth, and the results are outstanding. I'm thinking about saving some work and not drilling the pin slot all the way through the receiver. There appears to be sufficient meat on the ejector side to do this- Headspace barrel, drill for pin from operator side (where it's already dimpled), and finish with end mill about .035" from outside face of the receiver. Thoughts?

  11. #25
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    Peening a barrel pin is pretty difficult. Wondering if they used a non hardened pin?
    Are you trying this to simulate a T3 non pinned barrel type?

  12. #26
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    Yes. I originally thought about welding over the pin, but I've had issues with bluing in the past.

    I imagine that the peening will be difficult, especially when you peen the second side. No matter how much you support the other end of the already-peened end, it'll probably want to unseat itself a tad.

  13. #27
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    Did anyone have issues with the hammer rubbing on the floor of the receiver? I double checked my pin locations and they appear to be correct. I'm using a surplus Romy hammer and the bottom has a camming action as it rotates down.

  14. #28
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    Im using a Tapco in mine i haven't noticed anything with it rubbing i reprofile my triggers groups though.

    I got my Cutter in the mail today and picked up a cheap X Y axis milling vise. Going to make some practice cuts later tonight.
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  15. #29
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    Let me know how the XY vise works- everywhere I've read says to stay away from them, but for selector notches, I don't see the problem. Maybe I'm just stubborn.


    Last edited by Hueto; 10-15-2016 at 03:15 PM.

  16. #30
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    Turns out that I'm an idiot and had the hammer in backwards.



    Never thought I'd spend $40 on two pins, but man are they righteous.
    Last edited by Hueto; 10-20-2016 at 02:25 PM.
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